Does it have anykind of clamping screw on the headstock?

A block of wood and a hammer is a pretty normal way of getting some spindles out, the wood will do no damage to a hardened steel spindle. Usually just a couple of solid taps is all that is needed as long as youve removed anything that would stop the spindle coming out.

Make sure you`ve loosened any allen grub screws holding on the pulleys ,gears etc…

Edited By mark smith 20 on 25/09/2016 18:33:37

I should have mentioned the screws. There may even be 3 spaced radially but bearing fit is often a problem. Ideally it needs to be a light tap with a hammer fit which is more or less impossible to hold to tolerance when the spindles are made so often bearing heaters and presses are used for assembly.

With one lathe what I would be inclined to do is buy some link belting to get it running and make the parts needed to extract it – or just buy decent linked belting. The only problem then can be if they need adjusting. Even Arc show pictures of a spindle being relieved on another lathe in their pdf on fitting new bearings to a Sieg. No point in blaming the Chinese for that as it is a common problem. The bearing needs to be an interference fit but one that can slide fairly easily for that sort of thing. I'd say it would be too loose if the bearing could be pushed back on by hand.

I did have a problem with a myford countershaft pulley once. It had more or less welded itself to the spindle. That can happen too but if it wasn't a bearing fit problem the spindle would move a bit before that caused it to jam.

John

–

Edited By Ajohnw on 25/09/2016 20:55:50

Maurice,

This 'Instructable' is worth a look **LINK**

http://www.instructables.com/id/Stripping-a-Myford-ML10-lathe-Speed-10-headstock/step1/Strip-off-the-peripherals/

MichaelG.

I have taken a spindle out with hammer and wood too. As he sort of mentions I would suggest a pretty heavy hammer. With that sort of thing it's best to be cruel to be kind. I'd suggest a good smart whack with a lump hammer and if it does move ok. If not I would be inclined to think again. It's possible to finish up with no more spindle to hit.

He doesn't describe using a length of all thread very well. It needs a shouldered slug that fits the rear end of the spindle well with a hole through that just clears the all thread so that it does centralise it. Aluminium should be fine but put a decent washer under the nut at that end.

The other end just needs a spacer of some sort so that the spindle can be drawn out. I happened to have a tool makers vice that was about the right size. Tube can be used. Then a plate with hole for the all thread. Another good washer under the nut at that end. Ideally one of the thick heavy ones. I'd suggest 10mm all thread.

I suspect a lot of people don't realise just how much effort it may take to get the spindle to move. Once it has moved it's easier but still hard. A bit of heat on the pulley first may help using a hot air gun to get it really hot with no chance of melting the aluminium.

I'm glad some one else mentioned link belt and even showed a photo of a decent type. T link or nut link is also good and probably better than any of the types that use shaped belt sections that fit into slots and then need ends to be twisted. Unless some one has some experience of persuading things like this to come apart I would suggest following that route and then making the parts that are needed to get it out if they wish. One thing I wouldn't do is say oh I have bought a lathe so I'll fit a new belt. They even work when the edges are frayed. They would better off adjusting the lathe and using it.  Chances are that it will benefit from adjusting all of the slides as lathes as they come often do. If the bearings do need adjusting rather than hitting a bit of grub screw I would try some large plumbers pliers and Myford really should have put some holes in it so that a C spanner could be used. If super tight a drift and hammer can be used to loosen or tighten the nut safely with a bit of care  – whoops if it has the holes for a C spanner or notches for the same.

John

–

Edited By Ajohnw on 25/09/2016 23:53:41

.

Sorry, Maurice … I hadn't realised that ^^^

Your reference to 'a website' was a little too cryptic for this old brain.

MichaelG.

Edited By Michael Gilligan on 26/09/2016 08:08:46

The instructions are fair enough really but I feel that a warning about just how tight the bearing fit may be should be added. Having done one with a hammer I decided not to do it that way again. Then it's a case of figuring out what will be needed before dismantling the head so that the parts can be made while the lathe is all in one piece.

I'd forget what I mentioned about heating up the pulley. Forgot back gears. When the pulley is released and the back gear isn't engaged it should spin freely. The back gear fit is likely to be tight.

If a head is stripped like this it's worth cleaning out all of the old grease and replacing it. It should be a decently thick smear of grease not packed full. They get that way via people regreasing them.

Adjusting the bearings is likely to be a bit more tricky than the instructions suggest. What I have usually found is that they need adjusting several times after the lathe has been used for a while.

If the bearings are scored and need replacing a home made all thread press or a real bearing press is likely to be needed to get the front cone off and to put a new one on. Some suitably sized disks are needed really as well to make sure the new outers go fully home in the housings. The makers usually leave some way of using a hammer and drift to get the old outers out so the main problem is keeping them reasonably square as they are driven out.

I wouldn't want to put people off if they want to do a job like this. As usual it's not rocket science but some preparation is a good idea. It's no good finding that there are problems half way through a job. I'm guilty. When I did my boxford I expected to be able to get the front cone off and had to abandon the idea so the old worn one is still on. One of the main reasons for doing it was to replace that.

Bearing suppliers often stock belts so linked belt can sometimes be easily found locally.

John

–