Progress no.1 restoration

Progress no.1 restoration

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Viewing 13 posts - 1 through 13 (of 13 total)
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  • #801468
    flyingsailor
    Participant
      @flyingsailor

      Good afternoon all,

       

      we you can see below I am part way through the strip down of my progress no.1 drill I believe a mk.2 after looking on lathes.com

      however my quill is absolutely solid as is the work bench slider below

      best suggestions for freeing these up very welcome I have hammers wood fire and a 100T bearing puller wish me luck

      Thank you

       

      Jack

       

      IMG_5284IMG_5283IMG_5285

      #801471
      bernard towers
      Participant
        @bernardtowers37738

        Maybe destroy the bearing cage and remove then fill with some freeing fluid of some sort, Plus Gas etc.and be patient. And by the look of the inside of the casting its been full of water at some time

        #801480
        old mart
        Participant
          @oldmart

          Try to remove the cross shaft which the handle and return spring fit on first. The gear teeth which mesh with the quill will likely be straight, so careful drifting with a brass or aluminium bar should move it. I cannot see which way it should go, but there should be clues if you look carefully. Also, there should be a screw to stop the quill rotating, probably on the right side of the main casting which needs to come out, and will provide another entry point for the Plus Gas.

          #813620
          flyingsailor
          Participant
            @flyingsailor

            So here is a much overdue update on the progress of my progress or should I say lack of.

            I have been unable to free the headstock from the pillar

            I have been unable to free the work piece holder from the pillar

            I have been able to free the quill

            most annoyingly I have been unable to remove the taper pin form the RH side of the

            All of these have basically bought the project to a stand still

            In good news I have deep cleaned and got he electric motor working

            #813627
            Diogenes
            Participant
              @diogenes

              Remove the switch/wiring/other combustible parts & get a blowtorch on the head clamp area, until it’s ‘smoking hot’.

              The top of the pillar looks ‘beaten’ – you might have to push the head down a bit first and remove any burrs before it will come off the top.

              Then the key tray.

              Then the table swivel.

              If it was mine, I’d bolt the base to the floor so there was a solid foundation to work from, one can then twist the head to and fro and ‘work it’ a bit, etc..

              Are you sure you are hitting the taper pin from the right end – it’s not always easy to tell, if they’ve been around the block a bit..

              #813637
              Adrian R2
              Participant
                @adrianr2

                It’s going to need something bigger than a plumbers torch to get enough heat into it I suspect – perhaps one, or even two, of the yellow MAP kits from Screwfix etc?

                I agree on bolting it down, plus a get a smaller steel pipe to put through the centre as a kingpin and a 3ft lever to apply torque to the head once hot.

                Do a dry run cold first, wear PPE and and take fire precautions.

                #813643
                Michael Gilligan
                Participant
                  @michaelgilligan61133

                  My own use of PlusGas tends to be on smaller items, but the general principle is universal:

                  It needs to seep into the joint by capillary action, and the best start for that is to clean the area where it will be applied.

                  It seems reasonably clear that the column of this drill ends slightly below the head casting [yellow arrow] … so get a scriber into that corner, and clean the debris out.

                  Then, and only then, apply PlusGas in small quantity, all the way round and let it seep-in … repeat periodically !

                  MichaelG.

                  .

                  IMG_0999

                  #813679
                  old mart
                  Participant
                    @oldmart

                    If the quill is starting to move, can you drop the whole assembly downwards? If the top bearing is holding things up, it would be asyto destroy the bearing cage and remove the ball bearings as Bernard suggests. The inner race looks to be a smaller diameter than the quill bore. Things should be easier with that out of the head. You can read the bearing numbers off the races and sellers like “The BEARING BOYS” can supply imperial sizes. You will probably need all three bearings.

                    I cannot see where the taper pin is that you are having trouble with.

                    #813686
                    Bazyle
                    Participant
                      @bazyle

                      Decades ago in ‘Jeynes Corner’ in ME he explained that when faced with a stubborn bolt rather than get a bigger spanner they would set an apprentice with a spanner and hammer to tap tap tap for hours even days. The little shocks caused microcracks in the rust. You can do the same the lazy way if you have an air hammer or air wrench.
                      Then apply the penetrating oil, which is just a very light solvent, eg petrol, that will penetrate carrying a trace of oil where thicker oil cannot go. Have you come across such a combination? It is usually called ‘2-stroke fuel’ and is just as effective as proprietary brands of magic fluid.

                      #813740
                      noel shelley
                      Participant
                        @noelshelley55608

                        If your any where near me ( N Norfolk )Then bring it over and I will put oxy propane on it, it will soon come off. I have numerous hydraulic devices for pulling or pushing things. The intermediate table support, push a tapered chisel or wedge in GENTLY to the split to open it up slightly, it should easily free. The top/ head may be grub screwed to the column. Noel.

                        #813743
                        old mart
                        Participant
                          @oldmart

                          In the “lathes UK ” website the height adjuster seems to be attached to the top belt cover, have you got that?

                          #813745
                          duncan webster 1
                          Participant
                            @duncanwebster1

                            I can see why you want the quill to move, but why do you need to get the top assemble off the column? Leave well alone. Where I used to work we had a big bucket of diesel in which we could immerse such things for days on end. Sometimes it loosened things.

                            #814286
                            old mart
                            Participant
                              @oldmart

                              Since the drill is not very tall, the table height adjustment would be all that it needs and the head to column joint could be securely locked permanently. Our Elliot at the museum has never needed its head moving in the last 17 years, the table is much easier to move. Not that it gets used often with two mills which make better drilling machines.

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