Unless a flycutter is set such that it cuts only on the front stroke you will get this situation. Doing that increases the other problem with flycutting, that of a concave surface.
There is also the temptation to make the fly cutter as large as possible to cover the area machined in one sweep. This in itself slows things down as the diameter requires a slow rotational speed which in turn has an effect on surface speed. Depth of cut is also minimal.
It is much better to mill a flat surface with smaller cutters but I appreciate your concern regarding the cost. Making a much smaller diameter fly cutter is one answer – you can convert an old, say 1/2 end mill or slot drill by grinding the teeth, save one, back and sharpening the remaining tooth much like you would a flycutter tool. This works but of course again only for shallow depths but everything speeds up considerably. Yes the surface finish doesn't not look so nice to some eyes but it will be much flatter and achieved far quicker.
I'm fortunate enough to have a variety of cutters to call on but personally I mostly use HSS 6mm FC3 'Throw Away' cutters for this type of operation, reasonably cheap and readily available compared with standard end mills/slot drills.
Carbide cutters will give you a longer life but are easily chipped/shattered and not likely to be reclaimed by the kit in the average workshop so I avoid them save for when a situation calls for it.
There is nothing wrong in flycutting but it's not the easy alternative that it's sometimes seen as.
Best – Tug
PS I am not suggesting by my first statement above that this is how a fly cutting operation should be set up – merely pointing out that this is the only way to eliminate cutting on the backstroke which, due to the nature of the operation, even with perfectly trammed mill, will occur – the larger the diameter the more it will do so.
Edited By Ramon Wilson on 18/11/2022 08:42:51