I don't think that would clamp up if was part of the main casting? A little more information would help to see what is going on, a picture is worth a thousand words as they say, so two pictures must be worth two thousand words etc. 

Pete

Edited By Pete White on 20/02/2021 19:14:45

No possible in this case, but a mate always said I like to go in home after the job has gone well, rather than pushing things and finishing on a disaster.

Hi, Rather than dismantle, you could stick weld it! , i had a cast iron quadrant break, so I bought some cast iron welding rods, welded it, then screwed a strip of steel to the outside over the break, ok not pretty but its still ok! Besides its a big strip down to take a milling head off! Make sure there is no grease present and paint! It looks like you could make a steel strap to support the break to the casting? Then paint it cosmetically… Good luck.

E-mail me with an e-mail address and I will send you some schematics. I have the Chester version but it will be the same thing. I believe the part comes off but only by removing the quill. Its the wrong time of day to go looking

Dennis

Aluminium would be fine. If you are making one from scratch you can optimise the design slightly at the same time.

Position the bolt so that it only just clears the diameter of the quill, (might need a longer bolt than you already have) that will give the most direct clamping force.

No need for the quill bore to be in the centre of the 'ring shaped' part, if making it on the lathe the part could look like an eccentric so that there is plenty material for the bolt head and clamping nut to seat on. If you dont already have an indexing handle then just have a clearance hole for a long bolt and have a flat to stop the bolt head revolving. Not sure what the holes and dowel pin are for but obviously you will need to them into account when deciding on the outer profile.

Ian P

I broke the cast iron carrier for the depth stop on my RF25 mill. The replacement was made from Aluminium plate. Not cosmetic, but it does the job just as well, possibly better. More metal = more strength ) without a lot of fettling to make it look pretty..

Looks like you have a turning job coming up, followed by some drilling. Either that or some bandsawing.

Catch 22, needs to be milled to shape, but can't be done until the mill has been mended!.

Could you make up a jury rig from some steel strip (say 3 mm ) like a Jubilee clip on steroids so that you can use the mill to finish the part to make the repair.

Could you make the new part by turning, cut it in half and use two bolts to clamp it together? (Drill the mounting holes oversize to allow movement during clamping )

Howard

Glad to see that you got the part off ok. As others have said replace it with an Aluminium ring.

regards

Is there room to replace it with a solid ring carrying a proper floating split cotter clamp?

Floating split cotter clamps are basically a pair of cylinders with part of the edge at one end chamfered to engage against the object being held. One is tapped for the clamping bolt and the other has a clearance hole for it. They sit , free floating, in a hole in the carrier ay 90° to the object being clamped. Generally the clearance between bolt shank and object is made as small as practicable to permit decently large clamping flanges. When tightened up the cotters self align and grip so the only scope for movement is the clearance between the cotters and the hole in the carrier. Which is small.

Cotter diameter of 5/8" or 3/4" diameter will be amply sufficient so the carrier can be less than 1" thick.

Clive