As far as I understand it the hex socket in the underside of the pin is basically put there so it can be installed and removed. The pin will be a snug fit in the insert but the inserts usually slip off, maybe with a little tap.

If you can rotate the pin without damaging its hex recess then you could unscrew in which case it will act as a tip ejector.

Ian P

Hi Rik

I have some similar holders although not made in China, the larger screw that tightens the lever that clamps down on the insert may have a hex drive top and bottom allowing you to use two hex keys at a time on the same screw you may find your screw has the same configuration. This allows double the force to be applied without risking cracking the hex socket.

The screw is actually a differential screw with two different threads, if you remove it completely you may find it does not engage the clamp correctly the clamp will be too high or low. try it a couple of times until you get the correct sequence to set the clamp in the right position.

The single central pin screw also should have a cam action that when you tighten it draws the insert laterally towards the holder. Try using two keys on it too, It should move.

I rather like this setup a very secure system that securely clamps the insert.

Regards
John

Surely top screw is only to clamp the insert down, so can be removed completely. Looking at toolholder from underneath, by rotating socket screw anti-clock, this should allow eccentric pin on other end of this to rotate anti-clock and unclamp the insert which it's pulling back towards the clamping hole?

Regards Ian.

Just break the carbide insert into pieces with a hammer and a hard punch. Once the tension from the insert is released the screw will probably unscrew easily, but if necessary the screw will be left proud so you'll be able to grip it with pliers or mole grips.
OK you sacrifice the insert but it pretty well guarantees you'll save the screw.

Hope that helps!

Wait until you are starting the final half-a-thou finishing cut on a vital and complex part, using this tool, and you will find that the carbide insert shatters when your neighbour's cat sneezes in the garden.

It always works for me …

Tim

If the pin has a standard thread you may need to turn it clockwise to release i.e. to get it to move upwards?

Can you use a Dremel with a diamond disc to cut the insert between the pin and the shoulder? If you can cut or break ithe insert I suspect the pin will move freely.

Why wait 3 1/2 days to do it.

Just get a hammer and whack the bugger

If the clamp can be removed then all that is left is the insert sitting on a pin.

I would just mount the tool in the bench vice and using a (soft) punch try tapping it under the edge of the insert from each side. it probably overhangs slightly. this should be enough to raise it slightly off the pin. allowing you to gently lever it off (There is probably a carbide seat under the insert, you don't want to damage that, replacements are available)

The pin does not have eccentric cam action. it works by a taper and the positioning of the tapped hole in the tool holder. As you screw it in it moves laterally slightly tightening the insert against the tool body.

Before any of the above I would try (two) hex wrenches top[ and bottom and try to unscrew the pin. Assuming it has two as my similar tools have. It should unscrew.

Regards
John

Here is a locking pin from a Walter 25×25 most work this principle. There is a carbide insert seat not shown in the pic as thats not relevant to your query. Not sure if your chinese toolholder works on this principle or not,. most industry standard ones do. The brown stuff you may be able to see on the screw is high temp grease. I always give the innards a wee coat everytime I change an insert.

cheers