slitting saw woes

This topic has 15 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 30 July 2009 at 13:02 by Ian S C.

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10 June 2009 at 12:40 #41791
wheeltapper
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@wheeltapper
Hi

I recently bought a slitting saw from company A with a spring loaded arbor.

on setting it up in my mill ( in a collet chuck ) I found that it ran off centre and only one or two teeth were cutting, the rest were just along for the ride.

at first I suspected the arbor so I made my own, turning it in a collet and making the diameter a snug push fit for the saw.

same result, chonk..chonk..chonk.

so I bought a saw from company B.

same result chonk..chonk..

question, are all slitting saws crap or does someone out there sell decent ones

cheers

Roy
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10 June 2009 at 12:40 #16475
wheeltapper
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@wheeltapper
10 June 2009 at 15:22 #41793
David Clark 13
Participant
@davidclark13
Hi There

Try buying a recognised brand such as clarkson or dormer from Ebay.

They should be fine.

regards david
10 June 2009 at 17:38 #41799
wheeltapper
Participant
@wheeltapper
Hi

nice idea but they seem to be as rare as hens teeth

cheers

Roy
10 June 2009 at 23:35 #41802
Steve White
Participant
@stevewhite78094
Hi Roy, if it’s any consolation, my milling cutters and slitting saws all do that on my Tom Senior horizontal mill. I thought it was the arbour so i made another one myself and had it running so true could hardly measure the run out -same result as you, chonk chonk! I hoped that every time I put a cutter on the arbour, it would be in a different position so any wear would even it self out…..hmmm, not sure.

Even so, it’s a bit frustrating having all those teeth and only a few doing anything useful.

Incidentally, all my cutters are good quality but some are possibly resharpened as they are second hand…….

Best of luck

Steve
11 June 2009 at 12:12 #41810
Jim Whetren
Participant
@jimwhetren72358
When I had the chonk..chonk.. problem with a 4″ saw I was using to cut con rod strips from a piece of 3/8″ plate, I used a Tinker jig to take a lick off the tip of each tooth.

This resulted in a satisfying zzzzzzzz.. when I used it again.

Whatever method is chooen to give the teeth a ‘touch up’, the important thing is to have the close running mounting boss stationary and rotate the blade around this using a piece of spring steel to index each tooth.

That way the teeth must be concentric with the bore.

I hope this helps

Jim
11 June 2009 at 13:18 #41812
wheeltapper
Participant
@wheeltapper
Hi guys

thanks for the replies.

I was beginning to think it was me, being a newbie to this game, but;

I just fitted a dial gauge to the milling machine bed and checked various things, total runout on the spindle is half a thou, its a chester conquest mill so I wasn’t expecting miracles.

fitting the collet chuck and clocking the outside gave me half a thou so the chuck is OK.

fitting my home made saw arbor and checking that gave me 1 thou total runout.

fitting the saw , placing a feeler gauge tween tips and gauge and running veeeery slowly gave me a staggering 22 thou runout.

so its not me.

Jim,

thanks for the tip, I am making Harold Halls grinding rest at the moment so when that’s finished I’ll have a go.

I can’t make them any worse can I

cheers

Roy
11 June 2009 at 22:54 #41826
Steve White
Participant
@stevewhite78094
Some good advice here, thanks Jim.

Roy, can you point me in the right direction for the grinding rest details please, is it an article in ME? I think I’ll have a go at it as well.

I’ve been at this game a few years, but not being a professional, I thought it was me also – I still do! I suppose it’s best not to make assumptions.

Many thanks

Steve
12 June 2009 at 13:26 #41831
wheeltapper
Participant
@wheeltapper
HI Steve

the rest I’m making appeared in Model Engineers Workshop issue 109.

there is a slightly more complicated one, again by Harold, in MEW issue 89 but I’m not into complicated yet

can I post piccies on this forum?

I’ve got a photobucket account I use on other forums so I could show how I’m doing.

cheers

Roy
12 June 2009 at 19:53 #41844
David Clark 13
Participant
@davidclark13
HiThere

Harold Hall’s tool rests have both been published in his books.

One was in his tool and cutter grinding book, and I think the other may have been in his complete milling book.

regards David
12 June 2009 at 21:05 #41846
wheeltapper
Participant
@wheeltapper
Hi

I just discovered I can have a photo album so I’ve put on some pics of my grinding rest .

I’m quite pleased with it for my first serious project.

cheers

the chuffed side of Roy
13 June 2009 at 11:27 #41861
John Wood1
Participant
@johnwood1
Steve, Harold Hall’s grinding rest is fully described in ‘Tool & Cutter Sharpening’ book which is number 38 in the Workshop Practice Series, many adverts available as well as http://www.specialinterestmodelbooks.co.uk

I have built this recently but find it perhaps a bit too comprehensive in that in an attempt to provide a table/rest to grind just about everything it makes it quite fiddly and laborious to use in some instances. I normally wish to gring lathe tools quickly but it takes me all evening to do one.

Having now seen the grinding rest in the Myford Series 7 manual, the table of which extends both sides of the wheel, allowing tool grinding to be done very quickly and at the correct angles I reckon this would best suit my purposes.

Regards

John
20 June 2009 at 16:01 #41960
Bizibilder
Participant
@bizibilder
Hi

I’m a bit late here as Jim Whetren has given the answer – sharpen in a jig on its own arbour or life is just clonk…clonk…clonk

Bizibilder
20 June 2009 at 18:39 #41963
wheeltapper
Participant
@wheeltapper
Can anyone tell me where I can get a 6″ saucer wheel so I can grind it properly.

cheers

Roy
30 July 2009 at 09:10 #42558
Jim Whetren
Participant
@jimwhetren72358
Hello Roy,

To sharpen saws on the Worden I used a diamond wheel from Arc Euro Trade.

D4BT9 15 Deg. Taper Page 22 of the catalogue.

This gave excellent results with such items requiring a fine edge to the grinding wheel, gashing end mills for instance.

Regards,

Jim
30 July 2009 at 13:02 #42562
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Spose’you could put the mandrill in the 4 jaw and center it,but then again t might not be round anyway.Ian s c
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