slitting saw woes

[wheeltapperParticipant @wheeltapper]

Hi

I recently bought a slitting saw from company A with a spring loaded arbor.

on setting it up in my mill ( in a collet chuck ) I found that it ran off centre and only one or two teeth were cutting, the rest were just along for the ride.

 

at first I suspected the arbor so I made my own, turning it in a collet and making the diameter a snug push fit for the saw.

 

same result, chonk..chonk..chonk.

 

so I bought a saw from company B.

 

same result  chonk..chonk..

 

question, are all slitting saws crap or does someone out there sell decent ones

 

cheers

Roy

[wheeltapperParticipant @wheeltapper]

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

Hi There

Try buying a recognised brand such as clarkson or dormer from Ebay.

They should be fine.

regards david

 

[wheeltapperParticipant @wheeltapper]

Hi

nice idea but they seem to be as rare as hens teeth

 

cheers

Roy

[Steve WhiteParticipant @stevewhite78094]

Hi Roy, if it’s any consolation, my milling cutters and slitting saws all do that on my Tom Senior horizontal mill. I thought it was the arbour so i made another one myself and had it running so true  could hardly measure the run out  -same result as you, chonk chonk! I hoped that every time I put a cutter on the arbour, it would be in a different position so any wear would even it self out…..hmmm, not sure.

Even so, it’s a bit frustrating having all those teeth and only a few doing anything useful.

Incidentally, all my cutters are good quality but some are possibly resharpened as they are second hand…….

Best of luck

Steve

[Jim WhetrenParticipant @jimwhetren72358]

When I had the chonk..chonk.. problem with a 4″ saw I was using to cut con rod strips from a piece of 3/8″ plate, I used a Tinker jig to take a lick off the tip of each tooth.

This resulted in a satisfying zzzzzzzz.. when I used it again.

Whatever method is chooen to give the teeth a ‘touch up’, the important thing is to have the close running mounting boss stationary and rotate the blade around this using a piece of spring steel to index each tooth.

That way the teeth must be concentric with the bore.

 

I hope this helps

Jim

[wheeltapperParticipant @wheeltapper]

Hi guys

thanks for the replies.

 

I was beginning to think it was me, being a newbie to this game, but;

 

I just fitted a dial gauge to the milling machine bed and checked various things, total runout on the spindle is half a thou, its a chester conquest mill so I wasn’t expecting miracles.

fitting the collet chuck and clocking the outside gave me half a thou so the chuck is OK.

 

fitting my home made saw arbor and checking that gave me 1 thou total runout.

 

fitting the saw , placing a feeler gauge tween tips and gauge and running veeeery slowly gave me a staggering 22 thou runout.

 

so its not me.

 

Jim,

thanks for the tip, I am making Harold Halls grinding rest at the moment so when that’s finished I’ll have a go.

 

I can’t make them any worse can I

 

cheers

Roy

[Steve WhiteParticipant @stevewhite78094]

Some good advice here, thanks Jim.

Roy, can you point me in the right direction for the grinding rest details please, is it an article in ME?  I think I’ll have a go at it as well.

I’ve been at this game a few years, but not being a professional, I thought it was me also – I still do! I suppose it’s best not to make assumptions.

Many thanks

Steve

[wheeltapperParticipant @wheeltapper]

HI Steve

the rest I’m making appeared in Model Engineers Workshop issue 109.

 

there is a slightly more complicated one, again by Harold, in MEW issue 89 but I’m not into complicated yet

 

can I post piccies on this forum?

I’ve got a photobucket account I use on other forums so I could show how I’m doing.

 

cheers

Roy

[David Clark 13Participant @davidclark13]

HiThere

Harold Hall’s tool rests have both been published in his books.

One was in his tool and cutter grinding book, and I think the other may have been in his complete milling book.

regards David

 

[wheeltapperParticipant @wheeltapper]

Hi

I just discovered I can have a photo album so I’ve put on some pics of my grinding rest .

 

I’m quite pleased with it for my first serious project.

 

cheers

the chuffed side of Roy

[John Wood1Participant @johnwood1]

Steve, Harold Hall’s grinding rest is fully described in ‘Tool & Cutter Sharpening’ book which is number 38 in the Workshop Practice Series, many adverts available as well as http://www.specialinterestmodelbooks.co.uk

 

I have built this recently but find it perhaps a bit too comprehensive in that in an attempt to provide a table/rest to grind just about everything it makes it quite fiddly and laborious to use in some instances.  I normally wish to gring lathe tools quickly but it takes me all evening to do one.

 

Having now seen the grinding rest in the Myford Series 7 manual, the table of which extends both sides of the wheel, allowing tool grinding to be done very quickly and at the correct angles I reckon this would best suit my purposes.

 

Regards

John

[BizibilderParticipant @bizibilder]

Hi

I’m a bit late here as Jim Whetren has given the answer – sharpen in a jig on its own arbour or life is just clonk…clonk…clonk

Bizibilder

[wheeltapperParticipant @wheeltapper]

Can anyone tell me where I can get a 6″ saucer wheel so I can grind it properly.

 

cheers

Roy

[Jim WhetrenParticipant @jimwhetren72358]

Hello Roy,

 

To sharpen saws on the Worden I used a diamond wheel from Arc Euro Trade.

 

D4BT9 15 Deg. Taper Page 22 of the catalogue.

 

This gave excellent results with such items requiring a fine edge to the grinding wheel, gashing end mills for instance.

 

Regards,

Jim

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Spose’you could put the mandrill in the 4 jaw and center it,but then again t might not be round anyway.Ian s c

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