Workshop Electrics

[Ian UsmarParticipant @ianusmar79339]

So at present I have a consumer unit in my workshop / garage but it is in the totally wrong location and also needs updating. I have a quick question if I move it can I just run some temporary cable from the new unit to a junction box connecting to the current wiring whilst I sort out some other issues, I need power as there is a fridge freezer that need to stay plugged in ?

Kind Regards

[Ian UsmarParticipant @ianusmar79339]

Wiring Question

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember12892]

[This posting has been removed]

[SteviegtrParticipant @steviegtr]

Buy some 30A joint boxes from your local hardware shop & some green earth sleeving. Take care & always work dead. Never live.

Steve.

[Grindstone CowboyParticipant @grindstonecowboy]

Two suggestions (whoever does the work):

Include a separate double pole isolation switch in the feed to the new/altered CU so future work can be undertaken more easily;

Consider a suitable extension lead run from the house to power the freezer for the time it takes to get the new circuit installed – maybe a couple of days at most? Removes the temptation / opportunity to work on a potentially live circuit.

Rob

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

And another suggestion fit an RCBO before the Main RCCB/RCD and MCB's just to run the lights. This will ensure that the lights stay on if the main RCCB/RCD is tripped. Avoids suddenly finding yourself standing in the dark.

regards Martin

[EmgeeParticipant @emgee]

Posted by Martin Kyte on 16/01/2021 22:05:05:

And another suggestion fit an RCBO before the Main RCCB/RCD and MCB's just to run the lights. This will ensure that the lights stay on if the main RCCB/RCD is tripped. Avoids suddenly finding yourself standing in the dark.

regards Martin

Better still fit a Non Maintained Emergency light with power supplied from the lighting circuit so if the lighting circuit power fails the Emergency light will provide sufficient light to allow safe shutdown.

Emgee

[phil hughes 2Participant @philhughes2]

hi

i use these British General 16-Module 10-Way Populated High Integrity Dual RCD Consumer Unit | Domestic Consumer Units | Screwfix.com

split the heavy power draw machines to separate halves,and also split the lighting,so if you trip 1 rcd the other is still live with lights etc.if you do use one dont forget to split the neutrals to the corresponding side.

i would do a new rewire to the new consumer unit and when your ready,then run the cables to the old location,use one of these 30A 3-Terminal Heavy Duty Junction Box Black | Junction Boxes | Screwfix.com

ONLY CONNECT OLD TO NEW ON A DEAD SYSTEM

hope it is of some use

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Like Emgee, my shop (with no windows ) has a mains maintained Emergency light. If the mains drops out for any reason, it provides light so that everything can be switched off, and an exit made in safety.

Howard

[V8EngParticipant @v8eng]

If you live in the U.K. this might be notifiable work under Part P of the Building Regs maybe be best to check that out first.

[Martin KyteParticipant @martinkyte99762]

Posted by Emgee on 16/01/2021 23:16:32:

Posted by Martin Kyte on 16/01/2021 22:05:05:

And another suggestion fit an RCBO before the Main RCCB/RCD and MCB's just to run the lights. This will ensure that the lights stay on if the main RCCB/RCD is tripped. Avoids suddenly finding yourself standing in the dark.

regards Martin

Better still fit a Non Maintained Emergency light with power supplied from the lighting circuit so if the lighting circuit power fails the Emergency light will provide sufficient light to allow safe shutdown.

Emgee

I suggest you do both.

regards Martin

[Frances IoMParticipant @francesiom58905]

Some years ago I replaced the MCB breakers with RCBO’s and by removing the original double width high current RCBOs gained space to add additional circuits so could split lighting circuits so cellar workshop unaffected by rest of house (I also added in an emergency maintained light – cheap but does need regular testing) + to add an additional ring circuit for the workshop as well as isolating the original cct from the rest of the house.

Edited By Frances IoM on 17/01/2021 11:58:48

[JAParticipant @ja]

Is it true that machine toolsin industry will have to use 12v DC lighting?

My workshop electrics were installed by me 25 years ago and works quite satisfactorly. However I do get fed up with the slow noisy start up of the strip lights and I am very aware of the better light from modern LED strips. I use mains LED lighting on the lathe and will fit such lighting to the milling machine soon. The change to 12v DC for the machines appears to be a no-brainer.

Thanks for the information about non-maintained emergency lights. Two will be ordered this afternoon.

JA

[OldironParticipant @oldiron]

Posted by V8Eng on 17/01/2021 10:47:30:

If you live in the U.K. this might be notifiable work under Part P of the Building Regs maybe be best to check that out first.

Only notifiable if the work is in a bathroom, kitchen or outside wiring/sockets/lights in garden as far as I can remember. If the worshop/garage is connected in a properly installed manner with the correct protection at each end it is considered to be inside. I see no problem with moving or replacing the comsumer unit if it is done properly. I would suggest using an extension cord to power the freezer as suggested by Grinstone Cowboy.

regards

[Ex contributorParticipant @mgnbuk]

This description of notifiable work

states that replacement of a consumer unit is notifiable under Part P

Nigel B.

[V8EngParticipant @v8eng]

Posted by Oldiron on 17/01/2021 13:43:47:

Posted by V8Eng on 17/01/2021 10:47:30:

If you live in the U.K. this might be notifiable work under Part P of the Building Regs maybe be best to check that out first.

Only notifiable if the work is in a bathroom, kitchen or outside wiring/sockets/lights in garden as far as I can remember. If the worshop/garage is connected in a properly installed manner with the correct protection at each end it is considered to be inside. I see no problem with moving or replacing the comsumer unit if it is done properly. I would suggest using an extension cord to power the freezer as suggested by Grinstone Cowboy.

regards

I have not needed to look at Part P for a long time and understand that it changes, but consumer units used to be specifically mentioned as requiring notification. That’s why I suggested checking.

mgnbuk must type a lot faster than I do.

Edited By V8Eng on 17/01/2021 14:20:00

Edited By V8Eng on 17/01/2021 14:28:11

[OldironParticipant @oldiron]

Posted by V8Eng on 17/01/2021 14:17:53:

Posted by Oldiron on 17/01/2021 13:43:47:

Posted by V8Eng on 17/01/2021 10:47:30:

If you live in the U.K. this might be notifiable work under Part P of the Building Regs maybe be best to check that out first.

Only notifiable if the work is in a bathroom, kitchen or outside wiring/sockets/lights in garden as far as I can remember. If the worshop/garage is connected in a properly installed manner with the correct protection at each end it is considered to be inside. I see no problem with moving or replacing the comsumer unit if it is done properly. I would suggest using an extension cord to power the freezer as suggested by Grinstone Cowboy.

regards

I have not needed to look at Part P for a long time and understand that it changes, but consumer units used to be specifically mentioned as requiring notification. That’s why I suggested checking.

mgnbuk must type a lot faster than I do.

Edited By V8Eng on 17/01/2021 14:20:00

Edited By V8Eng on 17/01/2021 14:28:11

I have always understood that the main consumer unit was reportable but any secondary ones are not.

" All other electrical installation work is non notifiable – namely additions and alterations to existing installations outside special locations, and replacements, repairs and maintenance anywhere. " Special locations include kitchen, bathroom & garden instalations.

regards

Edited By Oldiron on 17/01/2021 14:46:23

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