Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917

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Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917

Home Forums Work In Progress and completed items Vickers Bl 8 inch Howitzer cannon of 1917

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  • #644898
    Clive Hartland
    Participant
      @clivehartland94829

      One of the problems with separate shell and propellant is that if the shell is not rammed into the rifling enough and the charge is placed, on elevation the shell can fall back into the breech.

      The consequences are dire as personell might still be alongside the gun.

      I know of 2 cases, one in the Iraq war when an M109 had this scenario and was lost. Another was an M107 in BAOR.

      Measuring rods were made to ensure ramming. Plus Hydraulic ramming fitted to guns.

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      #644911
      Mick B1
      Participant
        @mickb1
        Posted by Clive Hartland on 12/05/2023 14:35:43:

        One of the problems with separate shell and propellant is that if the shell is not rammed into the rifling enough and the charge is placed, on elevation the shell can fall back into the breech.

        The consequences are dire as personell might still be alongside the gun.

        I know of 2 cases, one in the Iraq war when an M109 had this scenario and was lost. Another was an M107 in BAOR.

        Measuring rods were made to ensure ramming. Plus Hydraulic ramming fitted to guns.

        There was a related issue with the 'Any Elevation' loading system originally fitted to QE class 15" battleships. The idea was to raise the rate of fire by omitting to depress back to level or near between rounds. However, under severe manoeuvreing conditions, as in battle, hydraulic power to the rammers might be starved, and when working at a high 'uphill' angle with a 1938 lb projectile, the wring of the driving band into the rifling leed could fail and the projectile follow the rammer out on withdrawal. The wring could also potentially fail through vibration after the propellant bags had been rammed, which would be much worse still.

        I understand that, rather than modifying the equipment, it was decided simply to resume the operating practice of depressing the guns for loading, but to a wider tolerance than before of (IIRC) +5 to +10 degrees or so.

        #691170
        Peter Bowers 3
        Participant
          @peterbowers3

          Hi All, I’ve made a start on my own 8″ BL Vickers. Just thinking ahead a bit, what colour would they have been painted in WW1. I understand there was probably a huge variation, & I think I read somewhere the original colour was a dark green. Is there any modern paint that would match the original.

          Thanks in advance from Australia

          #714985
          Pete
          Participant
            @pete41194

            One possibility, the Royal Artillery Museum in the UK might be able to provide a definitive color simply due to any restoration work they’ve done. https://royalartillerymuseum.com/ Some museums are pretty helpful, others not so much. But as far as an exact off the shelf color match? Doubtful, but that’s why they mix paint to the color you want. The other question is how glossy or non gloss was the original paint used? At one time those gloss paints were unknown. Although I’m unsure about what exactly would be used on a WW 1 artillery piece. As one example, most restored stationary steam engines in museums would actually be incorrect as far as true originality since many museums now use those high gloss paints. I suspect but don’t know for sure that the military would have used a flat paint to reduce any light reflections for the same reasons camouflage netting would have been used when the gun wasn’t in use.

            #715198
            Neil Wyatt
            Moderator
              @neilwyatt

              Paints in the WW1 era would not have been dead flat matt, they would have been powder pigment in a linseed oil base so quite variable and more of a satin sheen/low gloss than a matt.

              Obviously, 100 year old paints can change a lot, but a visit to Bovington and looking out for examples of original paint will show that WW1 and even WW2 era AFVs weren’t ‘matt’ finished in the same way as our models.

              #715203
              Neil Wyatt
              Moderator
                @neilwyatt

                Wow, this is a can of worms. It seems that during WW2 British armour was painted in matt or dull paint. Post WW2, army vehicles were gloss bronze green, and it was only after mounting disquiet in the 1960s that matt disruptive paint schemes were brought in, in the 70s.

                I found this on the net for WW1:

                 

                https://archive.armorama.com/forums/226059/index.htm

                This is what Dick Taylor says in his book, “Warpaint, Vol.1” (pg. 21 and 31):

                “There appears to have been at least two and probably three Brown hues in regular use in the WW1 period, and when researchers discover a reference mentioning Brown, they should always consider which is more likely. The first color was a medium Brown produced in matt but also a variety of gloss and semi-gloss finishes, and was often referred to as “Service Brown.” The second Brown was a lighter and slightly Greener shade, generally used in matt only, and was known as “Khaki” or sometimes “Khaki-Brown.” … There was also probably a third variety of Brown specifically used on Tanks, and this is discussed below.

                #717561
                mal webber
                Participant
                  @malwebber91786

                  1

                  #717569
                  mal webber
                  Participant
                    @malwebber91786

                    Hi all, it’s been a while, small update the Howitzer is back in the shed and I’ve made a small start on the  sheet work on the cradle,plenty still to get done on the sheet work and to build the left hand traversing slide, couple of pictures on how it looks.

                    Thanks Mal.

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                    #720153
                    mal webber
                    Participant
                      @malwebber91786

                      Hi all, I finished both sliding parts one to go on the cradle and other to attach to the trail ,both parts together allow for the 4 degrees transverse movement on the Howitzer cradle.

                      The part that attaches to the trail was made from solid, and the for the cradle was made from flat plate welded together and a bit of fettling to finish it ,couple of pics below on how things turned out.

                      Thanks Mal.

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                      #720190
                      Robert Butler
                      Participant
                        @robertbutler92161

                        Thank you for the updates

                        Robert Butler

                        #725575
                        mal webber
                        Participant
                          @malwebber91786

                          Hi all, small update on the Howitzer build. I’ve been busy on some detailing on the cradle with some rivets but now have run out so more on order to finish other side, the screws will be replaced with rivets on final fitment, after I finish other side it will be back onto trail to finish some fitments and rivets. couple of pics to see how it’s coming along.

                          Thanks Mal.

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                          #725606
                          Peter Bowers 3
                          Participant
                            @peterbowers3

                            Looking Great Mal

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