Engine removal trolly.

[Tony saccParticipant @tonysacc93877]

I tried posting this before but got an error message.

Engine removal trolly and work stand.

Getting the XS650 engine out of the frame is not an easy task as there is only a mm or two to spare, so getting the engine out was a bit of a dilemma for me with fused fingers, no elbow joints and a fractured and displaced lumbar spine. I slept on it for a night, put the noggin muscle to work and came up with this engine removal/work stand trolly.

Initially, it started of as a simple lifting, tilting forward/backward trolly, for removing the engine from the frame, but it did scratch the lower and upper frame a little, I thought I could do better than that, so, I added a sideways tilting mechanism.

Its still not easy though, requiring multiple adjustments up and down, side to side and forward and back to position the engine so it can be wheeled out of the bike.

If you get the multiple adjustments required right, the engine can be removed/inserted in the bike in about five minutes.  Considerably longer if you don’t get the multiple adjustments right.  One thing is for sure though, no way could I remove the engine without this trolly.  The engine is a heavy lump, weighing in at around 150 lbs.  A lot more than my old, feeble body can now entertain.

I used it recently, so the process is still, imprinted in my feeble mind, sort of.  So, here’s how it went.  Look away now if you get bored easily.

To remove the engine first I need to remove the exhaust, carbs and air cleaners, and engine breather, disconnect the alternator leads and points lead, remove the top, front and upper rear engine mounts, then loosen the two long lower engine mounting bolts.

Roll the trolly over and connect it to the upper rear engine mount and the front engine mount, raise the engine enough so the two long engine mount bolts underneath can be removed.  Then wrap the two front frame downtubes in bicycle inner tubes to prevent scratching.  Not necessary if you are careful and watch what you are doing.  But being a measure once and cut twice kind of guy, I get impatient.

Now we’re ready to commence:  wind the engine up a little and then tilt the engine forward so the rear engine mount clears the rear frame mount.  Get down on your hands and knees so you can see underneath the engine and push the trolly forward until the lower frame engine mount lines up between the rear sump stud nut and the rear electric starter mount,  there’s about a 2-3mm gap.  Wind the engine up until the rear top engine mount is about 2mm from the highest point of the upper frame tube.  Pull the trolly to the right a little.

Now, wind the side tilting mechanism so the engine tilts to the left, then roll the trolly and engine to the right an inch or so, then wind the engine up again until the left, upper rear engine mount just clears the top frame engine mount.  Roll the trolly out another couple of inches and then tilt the engine upright again.  That clears the rear, upper engine mount from the frame tube.  Then wind the engine up until the sump studs and electric starter mount clear the lower frame mounts and wheel the engine away.

I vaguely remember having to tilt the engine upright at one stage also, so there’s probably a few other adjustments I’ve forgotten, but that’s about it.  Easy peasy, huh.

Now the engine is out, the top end, clutch and alternator can be disassembled/assembled.  But again I thought I could do better than that, so I fabricated a handle that slips inside one of the prongs that connects to the engine.  Using this handle, I can rotate the engine through 180 degrees and disassemble/assemble the bottom end.

With this trolly I can remove the engine from the bike, disassemble the top end, clutch, and alternator, turn it over and disassemble/assemble the bottom end, then replace the engine in the bike without the engine ever leaving the trolly.

Had I made the trolly from heavier stock, I could also use it to test run the engine.  But the trolly is only made from scrap material I had lying around.  30mm RHS for the main frame, some flat bar for bolting the engine to, some 20mm and 12 mm allthread rod, and some small castors.  I did have to turn up a few pieces for the rotating, tilting mechanisms.

When I rebuilt the engine I never really checked the crank, but this time around I did and noticed the big end side clearance on the right side was a whopping 3mm.  So I pressed the crank apart, inspected the bearings which were ok, then pressed the crank back together and lined up the mains.  I also noticed the guy that rebored the barrel didn’t cross hatch after, so I did that also.

But, I like playing with engines and making stuff, so I wheeled in my engine crane, released the engine from the trolly and dumped the engine on the bench, then set about making an engine test stand so I could run it on the bench.  The test run stand has a 2 litre fuel tank, a throttle lever which I milled on the mill and a rudimentary ignition system.  Of course being a 360 degree twin, this thing jumps around all over the place when started, so I had ropes criss crossing the engine and bench to hold it in place.  I left the engine on the bench for a few months while I played with it, making a new phosphor bronze points cam and a few other bits and pieces.

[simondavies3Participant @simondavies3]

A very nice piece of real engineering!

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Very neat ! Necessity is the mother of invention.  Noel.

[mark costello 1Participant @markcostello1]

Well done!

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