DRO Guide

[NeillParticipant @neill]

I’ve just had DRO put on my lathe (I wimped out of doing it myself) and it’s great, but I feel I could probably get a lot more out of it.

 

Is there a decent book on the topic that anyone is aware of?

[NeillParticipant @neill]

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Assuming its a glass scale type and not the calliper scales then have a look at the DROPro videos they give an idea of what can be done.

 

J

 

 

[BogstandardParticipant @bogstandard]

Neill,

 

Even though a lot of DRO display boxes have a lot of the same functions, they do sometimes use different methods (keypresses) of achieving the same thing.

 

I found with mine (same unit for both lathe and mill), I just followed the instruction book word by word. After a couple of goes it was fairly easy to pick up. Even though you might not use the function very often, it will come flooding back when you do, or you will understand the programming in the book much easier as you have done it all before.

 

One thing I will tell you for nothing, in imperial, forget about using the five decimal place display, or four in metric. Have it displaying to the 4/3 decimal places, otherwise you will soon be chasing your tail. A tenth is plenty accurate to work to.

 

John

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

You have got one that moves in 0.00019″ steps as well then Bogs

 

J

Edited By JasonB on 25/07/2011 20:14:47

[adyParticipant @ady]

You have got one that moves in 0.00019″ steps as well then Bogs

 

Maybe DROs need a damping system for those shaky fingers after a night at ra pub.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I think its because they read to 0.005mm and then just convert that to imperial so you get a bit of rounding up/down.

 

J

[BogstandardParticipant @bogstandard]

It might be a bit of a senior moment on my part, but I just do not understand.

 

You have got one that moves in 0.00019″ steps as well then Bogs

 

Unless of course you have misunderstood the 4/3 bit, which means 4 decimal places in imperial and 3 in metric.

 

I don’t know if it has any bearing, but in 5 decimal place mode for imperial, it only displays to an accuracy of 5 hundredth’s (0.00005″) and because of the accuracy displayed (BTW, I am now a coffee totaller, so no shakes) it takes a lot of keeping up with when doing a cut., and no, Specsavers won’t help.

 

John

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

I fitted a DRO to my milling machine and can say it’s the best investment I’ve made. Toying with doing the same to the Super 7 but waiting to see a really neat fitted layout before pursuing.

 

[adyParticipant @ady]

We jest with you sir, once things get to 10,000ths then 8tpi and 10tpi leadscrews are probbly too coarse and these leadscrews would probably benefit from an additional worm drive system, like a fine feed.

 

Does anyone know if you can connect the output plugs from a vernier directly to a mach 3 control type system?

There’s a wee output connection plug cover, usually on the top of a digital vernier, while the battery cover is on the right hand side.

Edited By ady on 26/07/2011 03:17:45

[adyParticipant @ady]

It’s not as simple as you would expect, hence the rarity, and the expense.

 

http://rchobby.gmxhome.de/elektro/pic/caliper/calip_eng.htm

[BogstandardParticipant @bogstandard]

We jest with you sir, once things get to 10,000ths then 8tpi and 10tpi
leadscrews are probbly too coarse and these leadscrews would probably
benefit from an additional worm drive system, like a fine feed.

Say no more.

I would not like to embarrass you by telling how us old timers get to put on a 1/10th feed, which is dead easy now I have a DRO to show me when it is so, rather than a handwheel scale to divide up into 10 imaginary pieces.

 

The words “being at one with your machine” comes to mind.

8tpi and 10 tpi leadscrews indeed!

John

[adyParticipant @ady]

I would not like to embarrass you by telling how us old timers get to put on a 1/10th feed,

 

I thrive on being humiliated, it’s my destiny in this life.

 

So you can tell us how you do it now. Cheers.

 

A giant handwheel on the cross slide?

 

 

Edited By ady on 26/07/2011 04:43:32

[NeillParticipant @neill]

Thanks guys for your help, I’m learning and all I can say is that after a couple of days I’m beginning to wonder how i got by before DRO.

[MetalhackerParticipant @metalhacker]

Just an aside. The standard of instructions in the average DRO from our oriental cousins is beyond belief awful. I have the Allendale electronics set which is a SINO in origin. Allendales instructions are superb. I also downloaded the Sino ones. I do not know who translated them into Chinglish but they are almost incomprehensible. So well done Allendale. (unsolicited plug)

The DROPros videos are good though

 

BW Andries

[NeillParticipant @neill]

I agree with regard to the Allendale manual, it is one of their DRO’s I’ve got. It is fine for how to set readings etc etc, but the sort of guide I had in mind was how to get the best from having a DRO. I can’t download the pro videos, we have lousy broadband speed and it would take hours.

 

It seems there is a gap (well 1 copy would be sold!) in the market here for a clued up potential author to write another volume for the workshop practice series.

[Gary WoodingParticipant @garywooding25363]

Unless you are very skilled, machining to 1/10 thou accuracy is simply pie-in-the-sky.

If you put a 2″ diam steel bar in the lathe chuck, with 12″ protruding, the end will droop about 1/10 thou under it’s own weight.

Further more, any machining produces heat. If you heat the same bar by about 27C, it’s diam will increase by about 1/10 thou.

 

[DerryUKParticipant @derryuk]

<into Chinglish but they are almost incomprehensible>

This annoys me too. Why a British reseller thinks it is OK to put THEIR name on a product and then give you a rubbish manual is beyond belief to me.

If I have just bought something for £5 direct from China then I can accept it but not when I have just stumped up over £100 (say) for an item.

Perhaps the image of their company is so poor in their mind that they don’t care.

Derry.

[NeillParticipant @neill]

In defence of Allendale, their manual is fine and very clear and makes setting and reading the DRO easy, with worked examples to clarify. I’ve not tried downloading the sino ones so cannot comment on them. The service I got from Machine-DRO was very good.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

can only agree, Machine DRO are very helpful. If you’re really stuck go to one of the big exhibitions and they will show you how, at least they did with me. I think it helps sales if they are seen to be demonstrating, so it’s in their interests as well

[DerryUKParticipant @derryuk]

Apologies, I should have said I was talking in general terms and not DRO specific. I am still saving up for my DRO <s>.

 

Derry.

[pcb1962Participant @pcb1962]

Posted by JasonB on 25/07/2011 16:38:06:

Assuming its a glass scale type and not the calliper scales then have a look at the DROPro videos they give an idea of what can be done.

What difference does the type of scale make?

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

None provided it has a similar read out but a lot of people say they have a DRO fitted to their machine which is just two or three of the calliper type scales using either the individual displays or separate remote displays. I know you can use the calliper type into a proper box if which case the only difference it will make is reliability or lack of.

 

J

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