Deepish Holes In Square Stock

[woody1Participant @woody1]

Evening guys.

Probably solved the problem myself (in my head, haven't actually attempted it yet). Using the clamping kit, mounting the work on the cross slide? Tool in the 3 jaw? What would you do fellas? Following the rule, 3 x diameter. Need to drill a 3/4'' hole in a piece of 1.5'' square which is 5.5'' long. fixed steady avilable for square stock? Learning slowly boys.

Cheers David.

[woody1Participant @woody1]

Supporting Square Follwing The 3xD Rule

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

David

Its not claer from your description which face the hole is to be put in.

In its in the 1.5 square face just put it in the 4 jaw, in fact if the hole is on one of the long faces you could still grip it crossways, in the 4 jaw.

Are you using a 3/4" drill?

Ian

[chris stephensParticipant @chrisstephens63393]

Hi David,

If as we suspect that you are drilling length ways down the centre of a piece of square, you can ignore the three times guidelines (not rules) as there is no side thrust to cause a problem.

chriStephens

[woody1Participant @woody1]

Sorry guys, length ways, my bad. My plan is to drill then ream to size. I have had good results with d-bit's (Home made, milled and stoned), pioleted of course. But this is going to be in pre-hardened, approx 35 though. +/- .005'' is good enough. I have standard twists just worried about wonder, as they do so well! Tomorrow I shall practice

David.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Jam the stock into a bearing, then support the bearing in a fixed steady

Square stock whirrs round easy peasy

I threaded 30+ inch square stock on a 16 inch lathe using that system, used the backgear so no whipping issues

Can use the same system to drill shorter square stock with the tailstock

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Many years back, I had the same problem of drilling a bar about 2" square by 5 foot long to take some Austin MINI stub axles in each end. I removed the tailstock and supported the long bar on a wooden cradle, then clamped the end to be drilled / bored onto the cross slide. Placed the drill into the 3 jaw chuck. This worked well and the holes were made to depth by advancing the saddle.

There is usually a way around most tasks – as you say, just need to think about it.

Ps, Like the idea of putting a square bar into an old bearing. I keep most of the old bearings that I replace in an old box – suprising what uses they are put to.

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

'Jam the stock into a bearing'?

It sounds a good idea but a bit impractical in this instance. The corner to corner size of a 2" square is over 2-3/4" (71.27mm) so it would need to be quite a large bearing! A ballrace is likely to have a significantly larger OD (if the ID is not to be distorted by the stock corners), if we are just talking about a plain sleeve bearing that too would need to be quite chunky so its OD remained circular.

If the OP had a fixed steady large enough to accept the bearing OD he is likely to have a 4 jaw big enough to hold the bar for drilling the end.

With care I would face the central part of the the end before using the slocumb bit, then face the end whilst supported by the tailstock. Drilling, even a large hole, should not impose any side loads but its best if the gripped end has already been faced and is firmly in contact with the chuck face.

Ian

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

It sounds a good idea but a bit impractical in this instance. The corner to corner size of a 2" square is over 2-3/4" (71.27mm) so it would need to be quite a large bearing!

—–

True, but you should mooch about for stuff whenever you can, not when you need it

I've got half a dozen rather large driveshaft bearings from my local garage picked up when the motor goes in for repairs

Ask nicely and Stick yer heid into the scrap bin… it's amazing what you can find

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

Last time I did anything like this I made a tube with good outside finish for the steady. The bore big enough to fit over the job, tap 4 holes equally spaced and use 4 screws to align the tube. I think it's called a "cathead "

[John McNamaraParticipant @johnmcnamara74883]

Hi Woody….Hi All

If you google:

lathe cathead

You will get some ideas for a bearing to affix on your square shaft,

Cat heads are easy enough to make using a short length of pipe or tube turned true on the outside for a bearing surface.

Cheers

John

[Joseph RamonParticipant @josephramon28170]

Other options:

Drill then bore to size – lighter loads mean steady not required, more accurate, takes longer.

Use the mill and stand it end on beneath tehs pindle, finish bore if required.

Mount the square on the cross slide and hold drills/boring tools on the mandrel.

Joey

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

You really need to use 8 screws to ensure that it does not twist out of line.

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

Joey – I don't see how standing the mill on its end would help – but then I have never used a "tehs pindle".

Sorry, I am in that slot of mood tody. Bob

[Gary WoodingParticipant @garywooding25363]

Is there a reason why spinning it in the 4-jaw and drilling from the tailstock won't work?

[Ian PParticipant @ianp]

Posted by Gary Wooding on 27/03/2013 14:21:19:

Is there a reason why spinning it in the 4-jaw and drilling from the tailstock won't work?

I have found the one reason why it might not work.

Looking at David's (Woody) album photographs, it appears that his Myford does not have a tailstock!

Ian

[Gary WoodingParticipant @garywooding25363]

Posted by Ian Phillips on 27/03/2013 15:25:22:Looking at David's (Woody) album photographs, it appears that his Myford does not have a tailstock!

Ian

Hmm, b*mmer.

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