Advice on repainting a Myford S7

[KnurlerParticipant @knurler]

Hi, folks

I have a Myford S7 here which is in need of a little bit of TLC. I'm considering a re-paint, and wonder if anyone has any tips for:

a) getting the old paint off;

b) priming the parts (i.e. what to use, and how to apply it);

c) ditto b) for the topcoat.

Are 'Myford Grey', the pale yellow for the inner surface of the bed/lettering still available from anywhere? I know that 'touch-up' paint is available, but what about larger quantities – enough to do a whole machine?

Thanks

K

[KnurlerParticipant @knurler]

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

They are made to be used not painted.

If you want to paint something come and do our eves and soffets.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Knurler,

Paint should be available in larger quantities, here are a few links:

*** Link***

***Link***

***Link***

Here's a description of a Myford restoration. Hope this helps.

Regards

Thor

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

Let him paint it if he wants. And its eaves and soffits.

I have repainted several Myford lathes and cabinets,following a mechanical overhaul, because people like to buy nice shiny ones. My own machines follow the Stevenson pattern.

I can recommend the machinery enamels from http://www.stationeryengineparts.com, especially their primer. Myford grey is available in 500ml tins from them, and several other sources. Originally a very thick primer was used. (See a certain John Stevenson's writings on painting Raglans on lathes.co.uk). So fill in any chips etc with cellulose stopper rather than rubbing down to bare metal.

I wouldn't strip the paint unless it's really essential, because of the difficulty in finding thick primers, just give it a good rub down with wet and dry paper.

I have not seen the yellow sold specifically for lathe beds, for this bit I have used Hammerite smooth Cream, or in one instance buff floor paint (Ihad some spare), which was a perfect match!.

Phil

[NJHParticipant @njh]

If you want the "genuine" paint it is available HERE however the site given by Phil is (considerably) cheaper! I found that the link he posted didn't work so let me try – HERE – yep that works.

 

(John Stevenson – have you no soul?)

Norman

Edited By NJH on 26/07/2013 15:56:16

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Posted by NJH on 26/07/2013 15:50:51:

(John Stevenson – have you no soul?)

Norman

Edited By NJH on 26/07/2013 15:56:16

Yes but it's in primer

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

Cartman – "Damn your black heart, John Stevenson!"

JS – "It's only primer, I'm getting it sprayed Myford Green next week!"

Neil

[KnurlerParticipant @knurler]

Hi, all

Thanks for the tips and links, and I hadn't thought of looking on eBay :doh:

John S – I know what you mean, but the Mrs says that if its going to remain as a centrepiece for the dining table, the least I could do is wipe it down with a dirty rag onc in a while – and give it a lick of paint

John, you sound like the sort of bloke that would do a good job of any task, so you're obviously the right bloke to ask this one of: if you were reliant ing he whole machine, how much paint would you think you'd need to do the job properly without scrimping?

K

[NJHParticipant @njh]

K

I think I'd buy a 1 litre tin to start with and see how that went – if it's too much then you have some for touch up, if it's too lilttle then you will be able to judge just how much more to get.

(From my observation of JohnS 's posts he is a pretty useful engineer but not, necessarilly, an authority on aesthetic enhancement! )

Norman

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

K,

A litre tin should be plenty.

For painting the cabinet, I used to use a small (4" I think) foam roller. This gives a non-smooth finish, though it is still gloss, slightly deckled you might say, and there is no danger of runs and sags like brush painting. Also uses less paint than brushing. Primer or undercoat needed first though.

For small parts, such as tailstock, top slide, apron etc, I used an airbrush, cheapo type, that gives more paint than the top of the range jobs. Thin paint 50/50 for this.

If spraying with compressor type gun, then the paints I recommended need thinning about 30 – 50%.

As an aside, when I was in the paint suppliers last week, I saw for sale empty 500ml paint tins. Great idea if you only use half of your litre!

Phil

[KnurlerParticipant @knurler]

Thanks Phil & Norman – I'll get myself sorted as soon as I can get the machine stripped down and cleaned (although that might be a few weeks because I've got other projects on the go at the moment.

The 'cabinet' for this one doesn't need painting – it's not on one It's on a stand made of welded angle, wth back & sde panels fixed on. The drip tray is welded up, about 2" deep, with outled for coolant recirculation. The tray was done in blue Hammerite a while ago, the frame in black smoothrite at a similar time.

K

[RobboParticipant @robbo]

K

Have been reminded that Hammerite no longer make the smooth cream paint I used.

However, I have a S7 with bright yellow paint between the ways, and a match for this is "Hi-Vis Yellow" a fast drying cellulose based paint sold in our local "£1 shop" and similar establishments. It is in a small tin, probably 200ml.

Phil

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