Stuart No 9 help

Stuart No 9 help

Home Forums Stationary engines Stuart No 9 help

Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #834678
    John Holloway
    Participant
      @johnholloway99594

      Hello all

      I’ve just started making a Stuart No 9 stationary engine and have looked through the components and seen that the connecting rod is made from a piece of 1” x 3/4” mild steel, I also bought the Tubal Cain book to assist in the making of this engine, but noticed that in the early Stuart kits this part was a cast item. Does anyone have information on machining (or build thread) of this part as any information would be greatly appreciated.

      Cheers John

      #834680
      Nicholas Farr
      Participant
        @nicholasfarr14254

        Hi John, if you don’t have any drawings, you can get them from Stuart Models for £22.00. In my 1968 catalogue, the listing says the connecting is made from steel.

        Regards Nick.

        #834684
        JasonB
        Moderator
          @jasonb

          Although I have not made a No9 I have made several engines with similar conrods using rectangular bar.

          I would start by milling one end flat and true or you can do that in the 4-jaw.

          Then stand on end, locate the middle and drill a small ctr drill hole. Then move to either side and drill for the two bolt holes.

          Now hold the bar flat in the mill vice, locate the previously machined end and then move along to drill and ream the little end hole.

          Now mill the little end to it’s overall rectangular section leaving any excess length for now. Ditto the big end. You can saw or mill away some of the waste either side of the rod at this stage if you want or just turn it all away.

          Now hold in the4-jaw by the excess material and support the big end with the tailstock ctr. And proceed to rough out parallel, then I would suggest setting over the topslide to do the taper with a round nosed tool so you leave a nice fillet at each end.

          Lastly saw off the excess material at the little end and round it over either by filing with buttons or on the rotary table.

          The basic idea is to get a smuch milling and drilling done while you have an easy to hold rectangular bar before you turn a tapered shaft and end up with very little to hold

          Photo 32

           

          #834704
          John Purdy
          Participant
            @johnpurdy78347

            When I made mine many years ago I made the con rod essentially as Jason suggests. It was also supplied as a piece of rectangular bar, and the kit was bought in the early ’70s. I also had Tubal Cain’s book and scratched my head as to how to do it as he says to “Trim up the forging”.

            John

            Stuart-Turner #9 with Boiler Feed Pump

            #834750
            John Holloway
            Participant
              @johnholloway99594

              Thanks everyone for the advice, I’ll let you know how it goes when I get to that part.

              I am sure I will be back here asking questions about other parts as I get to them.

              Cheers John

            Viewing 5 posts - 1 through 5 (of 5 total)
            • Please log in to reply to this topic. Registering is free and easy using the links on the menu at the top of this page.

            Latest Replies

            Home Forums Stationary engines Topics

            Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
            Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)

            View full reply list.