How to mark out and machine a radius

How to mark out and machine a radius

Home Forums Beginners questions How to mark out and machine a radius

Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
  • Author
    Posts
  • #117959
    richard oates
    Participant
      @richardoates59048

      Hi I have bought a kit to make a stother and Pitt beam engine their is quit a bit of machine work to do for me a novice. On one crank there are several radius internal and external and I was wondering if somebody could point me in the right direction in how to machine a radius.

      #6683
      richard oates
      Participant
        @richardoates59048
        #117967
        Bazyle
        Participant
          @bazyle

          It depends on the size and position. Sometimes it is possible for an internal radius to carefully drill a hole so that it forms the radius of perhaps mount on a lathe faceplate for smaller items and bore the hole before other work is done.

          For outside radii of small size research "filing buttons" and for a large radius look for the old ways fo making stephenson's valve links. I say old way becasue a lot of the web searches will now come up with stuff about CNC and rotary tables which you don't need.

          #117973
          JasonB
          Moderator
            @jasonb

            Maybe a drawing would help people see what you are intending to make.

            sp crank.jpg

            First mark a centre line and the two hole positions 18mm apart and dot punch them.

            Take a pair of dividers and mark the 10mm and 15mm external radii

            Mark the 10mm and 8mm widths and join these up to get the tapered lines

            An easy way to mark the internal 6mm radii is to take a short faced bit of 12mm rod hold the end onto the work and adjust the position so it is tangental to the arc and line then just scribe the 6mm radius.

            To machine will depend on what you have available but

            First drill the two holes, saw off the waste, make arbours to fit the holes and mount the work in a chuck on the rotary table and using a 12mm (to give 6mm internal radii) cutter round the ends stopping at the taper lines. Reverse and do the other end. Then either mill or file away whats left.

            Finally use the arbour again to mount in the lathe and reduce the thickness

            Of course filling buttons and a couple of files will also do the job. At the other end of the scale if you have a CAD package you can use that to get co-ordinates of the 6mm radii and just drill them to 12mm and join up between with the mill.

            What does Anthony Mount say about the part?

            Edit just looked at Anthonys build article and he does it as I describedwink 2 but say what machines and tooling you have available as there are always more than one way to do the job.

            J

            Edited By JasonB on 28/04/2013 07:56:25

            #117975
            JasonB
            Moderator
              @jasonb

              Richard you may also want to take a look at Jo's threads on MEM, she is building both the 1/12kit and a larger 1/6 scratch built version and has a few threads showing various parts being made

              here

              here

              #117977
              Chris Heapy
              Participant
                @chrisheapy71135

                Many parts like this (external radii) are more quickly dealt with using a combination belt sander/disk sander. It perhaps won't be as accurate as machining the part (depending on what tooling you have available) but if time is valuable to you then grinding is a good method. The finish is also very good. A rotary table with a chuck should also be high on your list of things to buy, you'll find it has many other uses apart from this type of work.

                For the belt sander, make a proper table for it adjusted to exactly 90deg, and if you run the belt right up to one edge (and slightly beyond) it curves around the edge a little allowing tight radii to be formed. The disk sander (typically 6" diameter) is good for putting the final finish on the part.

                This is a rather poor picture of mine, on the left, but you get the idea..

                #117980
                Sub Mandrel
                Participant
                  @submandrel

                  I would always use buttons for a part like that, but one day I'll get a linisher/disk dsander and try Chris' approach.

                  I've used the mill/rotary table approach for connecting rods, and it works, but I'm not sure it is significantly faster or easier than buttons for a single part.

                  Don't forget that, within broad parameters what matters here is getting the part to look right, so expect hand finishing anyway. The crank below was entirely done by filing buttons and hand, aside from making three holes. ( the top counterweight has a plug in it).

                  Neil

                  The crank and eccentric

                  #118163
                  Rick Spaidal
                  Participant
                    @rickspaidal44040

                    For us newbs please exactly what is a filing button and how does one get some and then how does one use them ?

                    #118166
                    Weary
                    Participant
                      @weary

                      This thread might assist.

                      Basically you make them yourself to suit the job.

                      Regards,

                      Phil

                      #118168
                      Sub Mandrel
                      Participant
                        @submandrel

                        Rick,

                        It's just a bulky washer with a screw through the middle. Some people leave them soft to be kind to the file, but I make mine from from silver steel and harden them and don't temper them.

                        Neil

                        #118228
                        Anonymous

                          I make my filing buttons from EN1 or EN3, usually from the offcuts bin, leave them soft, and throw them away after use.

                          Andrew

                          #118245
                          Ian S C
                          Participant
                            @iansc

                            I make mine from odds and end of scrap steel, and case- harden it with Kasenit, I,v got a whole stack of them on the window sill, some times I even find that I have old ones that fit the job. Ian S C

                          Viewing 12 posts - 1 through 12 (of 12 total)
                          • Please log in to reply to this topic. Registering is free and easy using the links on the menu at the top of this page.

                          Latest Replies

                          Home Forums Beginners questions Topics

                          Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)
                          Viewing 25 topics - 1 through 25 (of 25 total)

                          View full reply list.