Making a thread end where I want it to

This topic has 9 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 13 July 2012 at 11:49 by jason udall.

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11 July 2012 at 09:25 #94132
Wolfie
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@wolfie
OK I know thats a bit of an ambiguous thread title, but I'm really not sure what to call this.

What I want is to make something that has a thread on it and when I screw it into something else I want it to be pointing in a particular direction as it tightens up.

OK I know I could chuck washers in there until the desired result occurs but my question is is there any way of arranging it before you start tapping etc so that it tightens up at the right place.

I hope that lot makes sense….
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11 July 2012 at 09:25 #6236
Wolfie
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@wolfie
Read for clarification!
11 July 2012 at 09:41 #94134
Eric Cox
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@ericcox50497
Make the thread first, screw it in then mark out the "thing" you want to point in that direction relative to the direction.

Say it was a disc with an arrow marked on it, screw it in then mark the arrow.

Does that make sense.

Edited By Eric Cox on 11/07/2012 09:43:48
11 July 2012 at 09:56 #94135
Ady1
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@ady1
If you make the screw in bit a bit too long then you can shave off the first thread until the flanges mate in the direction you want
11 July 2012 at 10:38 #94142
Nicholas Farr
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@nicholasfarr14254
Hi Wolfie, I'm sure there must be away because when I was in my maintenance years I had to fit such new parts that came from the manufacturers into their machines, they always ended up in the right place.

However when I've ever had the make new screw in pins that needed a cross hole or the such like, it was best just as Eric says, make the screw bit first then screw it in and mark off where the hole or whatever needs to be.

Regards Nick
11 July 2012 at 10:53 #94145
Clive Foster
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@clivefoster55965
If its a tapped hole you can, in principle do the job by tapping not quite deep enough, inserting the mating part and figuring out how many turns and / or part turns more you need to tap to get the right orientation. I suppose a similar tactic would work with a die. In practice probably a right faffle and odds of getting just right are slim.

Clive
11 July 2012 at 11:30 #94151
Ady1
Participant
@ady1
If you want to do a lot of them its a case of distance and thread pitch

So if you screw a part into a fixed depth block with the end protuding out and part off the extra threaded part so it's flush with the block you should have a lot of parts who always mate in the same direction

… I think

I would try it out on some scrap bolts first
11 July 2012 at 12:06 #94154
David Littlewood
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@davidlittlewood51847
Wolfie,

When I saw the thread title, I thought you were looking for a way to stop threads on this site from spinning off into irrelevant fancies. As if!

It might help if you told us more specifically what you are trying to make. For hex head bolts, your washers idea is on the right lines, though working out the thickness of the washer needed (from thread pitch and angle change needed) and making one washer to suit would be much better. If it's more complex, like two machined parts which need to screw together, you may be able to come at it from behind, as it were. Make the machined surface of the female side, but leave the rest unmachined; drill and tap, try male part in it, shave off bits of female surface until angle is right, then machine rest of female part to suit. Bit fiddly, but it that's why I say it helps to know what you are making.

If it's purely cosmetic, as is often the case in model making, use a dummy bolt (unthreaded) and Loctite in place, then you can orient it how you like.

David

Edited By David Littlewood on 11/07/2012 12:07:39
11 July 2012 at 12:24 #94158
Martin Kyte
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@martinkyte99762
put a hole in the part, make a thread with a plain shank and loctite the two togather

Martin
13 July 2012 at 11:49 #94330
jason udall
Participant
@jasonudall57142
If you what to be impressed look at a cnc cutting screw threads…

1000 rpm multipass and if required multi lead…the syncronisation between C axis and the feed is a little awe enspiring..

but at the end of the day as has been said here it is only a matter of lead per rev by thread length the determines the number of revolutions ( or part there of) of the thread.

I have seen archery demontrations using "broad head" points. putting the head through a narrow slot.

the arrow will only fit through at 12 oclock (say) and the spin of the arrow is so consistant that half a pace closer or futher would not work.
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