Do you have a set of stepped odd leg calipers? one leg is stepped at 90* the other has a scribing point fitted, if so then all you need to do is set your measurements & placing the stepped leg along the 45* edge & scribe along the 45* face at whatever your measurement needs to be, if you get my drift, many have used an older digital vernier to the same effect., I have.

George.

Any reason why you cannot drill and tap the holes before machining the ends to 45 degrees?

Probably faster to go the long way round and make up a jig to hold the plates exactly right then use the mill axis scales to co-ordinate drill the holes.

I'd be thinking in terms of clamping them in an L shape channel set at the right angle. Once you have the co-ordinates figured for the first one everything else repeats.

Model Engineer and Home Shop Workshop types have too much of a savings / economy mentality when it comes to materials. Objectively sacrificing a bit of metal to do the job just like that beats the pants out of messing around for a day with knife'n fork methods. One day I'll convince myself (don't hold your breath, haven't managed in 50 odd years so far).

Dovetails are measured with cylinders to avoid problems like this. Do you have any silver steel or other ground rod that could be used against the angled face to allow more accurate measurement?

Martin C

Don't need to go wasting metal making L shaped jigs when you have a pair of Uncle Ketans blocks

Or the little jig I mentioned above

Rods also need to fit into a Vee to be of any use.

MK2 JBBlock. 20 x 20 would make it easier to just knock 10mm off the indicated edge, hole will clear a burr thrown up in either direction.

what do you think of the deluxe block, acute & obtuse angles and a vertical face directly above the corner for the mathmatically challenged who can't add/subtract 10 or those who work in imperial.

It's not your royalties I'm worried about, it's Ketan's cut that's the problem

Have I misunderstood this?

"The holes have to be normal to the angled face".

So why not just clamp the work so that the angle face is horizontal, in both planes, and use the edges as the datum planes, then use the Mill as a Jig Borer to position the spotting drill or centre drill where the holes are required, and proceed as with any other horizontal face?

Howard

A gauge could be made like this, if the round bar is made dia.14.14mm then the face of the bar as indicated will be 10mm from the apex of the mitre, use you favourite edge finder to locate then position to drill and tap.

Mike