I'm replacing fluorescent tubes with strips of LEDs from a reel. If they aren't bright enough stick up some more!

Geoff

We are currently fitting out a new shop to move our business to and all lighting is LED, believe me they are bright, brighter than fluorescent and I understand do not lose brightness over time as do fluorescent . We have fitted out the sales area, offices and workshop all with LED.

I don't have the spec to hand but will have a look tomorrow and post the spec on here.

John

I fitted a 5' LED batten light in a garage workshop for someone recently. Very bright; much better than the equivalent fluorescent tube. If the diffuser is removed, the individual LED elements are about the size of an old postage stamp, and almost too bright to look at at close range. On the other hand, I have just put 5 meters of stick-on led tape under a kitchen cabinet, and it is not as bright as the fluorescent tube that I took down. Much smaller area of course. I intend to replace the lights in my workshop with LED as soon as I can.

Maurice

I have to admit I thought the only way of getting decent LED light was to replace the whole fitting rather than just using a retrofit LED tube. From the comments above though it sounds like they have improved a lot and I am behind the times!

Having said that, the specs don't back up the views above.

eg a Ledkia 5ft tube here**LINK**

is 2200 lumen.

A standard flozzy tube is about 5500 lumen.

Which is about what I would expect as the LED is only 22W vs the flozzy at 58W and the efficiency of LED is not that different to fluorescent. (certainly not twice as good)

EDIT: according to wikipedia a T8 fluorescent tube is about 80lm/W efficiency, leds are up to about 100 to 130lm/W now so, while LEDs are noticeably more efficient you would still need around the same power input to give a significant light output. And that is the trouble with LEDs they don't like power as they get hot and fail, hence there fact that overall the struggle to match fuorescent.

The story is slightly difference with CFL incandescent replacements, theses small, coiled, tubes are not very efficient so it is possible to get like for like LEDs that are as good if not better.

In my house all bayonet and edison screw bulbs (and GU10 spots) are now LED but any tubes are still fluorescent. If I was to replace the fitting though I would go with LED as long as cost and style were not issues. 

Edited By Toby on 22/02/2017 09:11:09

All I can say is that having replaced the "flozzys" with LED tubes, they are significantly brighter. This may be because our luminaires were all the cheapest available, but I doubt it.

excellent advice and I agree, things like whether the fittings have reflectors make a big difference to fluorescent (hence me suggesting painting the ceiling white…….).

I'm pleased to see a mention of the need to paint surfaces to reflect the available light where possible, it really does make a difference. I'm also mean with energy consumption and not necessarily make efficient use of it.

I only have a single 4ft Fluorescent 36w over the Lathe and individual Super Bright LED adjustable Lamps on the Mill and smaller Lathe which are more than effective.

I will eventually however convert to LED and add extra Tubes when I've repainted the W/shop walls and ceiling, then modified the workbench etc.

Regards

Then you believe incorrectly

Philips Lighting UK Why is the life of LEDs measured as lumen depreciation?

Unlike conventional light sources that reduce in output and eventually fail, LED products do not normally suddenly fail. Instead, the light output reduces over time.

The normal convention is to quote the life when the output has reduced by 30%. I.e. when there is 70% light output remaining. This is often quoted as the L70 life and is measured in hours.

Philips Technology White Paper – Understanding power LED lifetime analysis

Typical datasheet for a 6ft tube showing 50000 hours to 70% light output

**LINK**

I reckon most here will have tubes that are over 10 years old but we think they are "fairly new".

In reality they will have degraded and not be giving out anywhere near the light they used to. Coupled with dirty covers, no reflectors and gray ceilings (and, dare I say it, failing eyesight….) we decide they are no good.

In 10 years time we will all be complaining that these "new" LED lights are not all they were cracked up to be when fitted and be looking for something that is better.

Don't get me wrong, if fitting new lights I would seriously consider LED but if it is just improving an old setup then perhaps a good clean, a new tube at about £2 and a fresh coat of paint on the ceiling might just do it?

Which reminds me, my workshop lighting is very dingy, perhaps I need to put my money where my mouth is

Edited By Toby on 22/02/2017 18:07:48

Question. Those 12v domestic downlighters type , (like the one for showers ,and kitchens (they look like a 240v GU10 but with 2 skinny pins )that run from transformers in the ceiling void …I guess they wont work using a car battery ? I know the incandesent ones will but the new LED ones ? 12v AC?

Ah ha …Thanks Toby