Something with give rather than lino will make standing far more comfortable. Some sort of cushionfloor would be OK, or you could use interlocking foam tiles.

JS has some excellent granulated foam stuff in his, but I suspect it wouldn't be 'pretty' enough.

If I was doing this I'd consider having some (disposable) hard-wearing carpet of the type that will 'suck' the swarf off the bottom of your shoes near the door.

Neil

P.S. beware of unsuspected hazards of indoor workshops. In the last house I got mildly electrocuted because a 'house rabbit' peed on top of my extension block. Soon became a 'garden rabbit'.

You need to change shoes when you enter or leave the room to avoid swarf being carried around the house by them. Been there done that. Curly swarf can be very difficult to remove from some carpets. Colin

For a spare room setup you might want to take into account door width for moving machinery in. If its an upstairs room then weight becomes important factor so a machine that can be easily split into manageable weights is ideal.

Also how many bends in the stairs.

I have a WM180 which my daughters ex helped me with (tail stock and chuck removed) and tool post wound to the rear to try and even weight distribution. Going up one person is going backwards and bent over while the lower person is having to lift high to keep things level. I managed an SX2P mill on my own after breaking into 3 parts column, table and base. Vibration from upstairs is also something consider wife always knows when I taking a big cut on the mill.

Fine for smaller machinery, the bigger stuff should go into the garage

Not mentioned yet is the oil up the walls (as well as swarf issues)

I had a friend who set up his workshop in an upstairs spare room, lathe, mill the lot. It was not ideal, too much noise in the house and, despite all precautions, swarf did get carried around the house.

A shed down the garden is okay until it's pouring with rain.

Best bet is an adjoining garage and leave the car outside (they're weather-proof and don't need

cosseting)

With machines in the garage I find swarf gets in the house, I now have one of these washable mats at the door to catch anything I have on my soles. If the lathe is small then a dedicated cabinet would be fine indoors but not a swarf removing machine as you will even find it in your bed as it goes down inside your shirt. Swarf and dust and oil smell will get everywhere and a re-think is necessary I think.

Clive

Mine is in the house. Not that it matters were I am but I had a splash board at the back against the wall made of ply. Just some 1/4" I had around. It's gone somewhere but the wall is part tiled.

It has cushion flooring. Good quality so easy to sweep up and it lasts. I have had problems treading swarf out onto a carpet in another room but not very often. I just take more care now. Eagle eye spots it anyway as does the dog. I usually work in sandals. Easy to take off and I don't hold heavy things in such a way that they might drop on my feet. If I made large scale traction engines I would wear something else and wouldn't be working in the house.

I had a lot more problems with flying swarf when I had an ML7. Bed and spindle a bit worn so swarf broke off a lot and went all over the place. Some reckon work improved this but not completely. Nice curly swarf doesn't fly around.

One problem people might not think about is noise especially if the machines are upstairs. I have some up there too. While looking for a 2nd lathe I visited a widow selling one of the cheaper gear heads that don't use precision ground gears. To noisy for me to buy. I checked it over for her and told her all was good and showed her which bits went with it. Afterwards she told me she understood why I was concerned about the noise. She often went out when her husband was using it – up stairs. I have things like radial arm saws and bandsaws on the top floor and they don't cause any problems. I'd say smooth running machines and no gears at higher speeds should be ok but houses vary. I've been in some were people can be heard walking around upstairs. They tend to be timber frame builds.

Pass on timber frame but with a bit of sense floor loading shouldn't be a problem. Joist's run in one direction and heavy loads can be put up against a wall that also supports the end of the joists. On the other hand people can be extremely heavy and might even jump about in one place. The main thing really is that a 4 legged bench wont be the ideal load spreader – more of a cabinet type arrangement or a machine cabinet will make a much better job of it. Mounted like that a 200kg wouldn't bother me, getting it up there would.

Storage can be a problem. Easier to show part of my solution. Shelf fittings from screwfix and mdf from B&Q same company but B&Q will cut up the mdf and sc were much cheaper for the fittings in bulk.

Taken part way through yet another tidy up. There are a number of shelves above the ones shown so I need some light weigh steps to get at things. Again sense is needed. What's under the wall etc. This house has some walls in places that are offset from the ones below. They did some strange things in 1911. I wanted shelves in my top floor workshop but the walls aren't solid. We have used some racking instead but the weight of the items on them compared with a lathe etc are low. Actually I have added some racking to the one above. . Shallow as putting things in front of others just makes it hard to get at things. The floor board here rotted away long ago and were filled in with concrete. The rest of the ground floor is solid but this area wasn't for some reason.

Yes my lathe is supported at one end on a window sill above a belfast sink at one end with bulk of it's weight on a very old kitchen unit. The miller which is surprisingly heavy is supported on that and a steel filling cabinet, deep draw a4 type. An old one. I did think about putting a length of the thick kitchen work surface across the lot but didn't. It's good strong stuff. I have made hefty benches in a shed and a garage using it. Kitchen units are also surprisingly strong. The modern drawers in them wont be much good for heavy bits and pieces but shelves will probably be ok – on decent makes.

John

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Edited By Ajohnw on 09/02/2016 18:05:42

I suggest that a small workshop be set up indoors, spare room/loft/cellar/cupboard under staircase, using small lathe to turn brass loco/traction engine parts or clock parts and small bench and vise. Have big lathe, mill, drill etc in outside workshop – shed/garage/outhouse and let the curly steel swarf fly! As stated above, some thought needs to be given to concealing from potential future buyers of the house, just what you have been up to, so as to not put them off. Also, dirty work outside reduces effort needed to clean up. Downside to detached shed is going out to it in pouring rain or snowy conditions. I find that the need for calls of nature only seem to become urgent the moment I have shut myself in my shed-den! Its happened so often that I now have home-made Elsan set-up in adjacent area.

John

My current set up with a workshop at the bottom of the garden looking out over the Andaman sea works well here in Phuket; I have plenty of space to lose swarf and dust on the way back up to the house and 500W of forced ventilation just about handles 30 degC and 65% humidity. But my fantasies of returning to the UK and buying a house with an internal, heated and dry workshop are taking a severe drubbing. I guess I'd better keep on renewing the retirement visa.

Colin

My man cave is in the converted garage attached to the bungalow concrete floor covered in the foam rubber matting from M/Mart ( usual disclaimer ), walls / loft area insulted & boarded, rubber matting in front of the machines & by the entrance door, I have a pair of safety toe trainers by the door which I change into / out of when entering / leaving, & usually wear a pair of old shoes or crocs when going to my man cave which I change into house slippers by the back door … & I still can't keep the man cave elf's out…

George.