on Going Taper

on Going Taper

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  • #486035
    Alan Gordon 4
    Participant
      @alangordon4

      Good afternoon folks, I have an issue on my S7 turning a taper. My lathe sits on a Myford cabinet. Using a test bar, a DTI and turning the "dumb Bell" I consistently get a taper ! it tends to be smaller at the headstock end. The taper however is variable. I have taken readings using different equipment.The saddle, crosslide and compound slide are smooth with no slack or looseness, As this issue is turning me to drink, I now hope some one can offer advice.

      #19866
      Alan Gordon 4
      Participant
        @alangordon4
        #486071
        not done it yet
        Participant
          @notdoneityet

          What do you get with a stout bar, turned in the chuck jaws only?

          #486074
          Martin Connelly
          Participant
            @martinconnelly55370

            Does sound like the part being machined is springing away from the cutter at the thick end.

            Martin C

            #486091
            Tony Pratt 1
            Participant
              @tonypratt1

              Loads of posts already for this exact subject, try a search. Tony

              #486225
              Alan Gordon 4
              Participant
                @alangordon4

                Thanks guys, will keep at it.

                #486251
                Howard Lewis
                Participant
                  @howardlewis46836

                  If the chuck grip is suspect, how about this?

                  Very firmly grip a piece of large diameter bar through the full length of the chuck jaws, and bore it to suit your test piece.

                  Mark for No.1 jaw, remove and saw cut along vthe length to use a s a collet.

                  Replace in the chuck. Fit the test material and grip firmly.

                  Then turn, as the Myford "cotton reel" method, This will tell you if the lathe bed is twisted (If it is, it will turn a taper )

                  The Myford instructions will tell you which point needs to be raised or lowered to remove the taper.

                  Ideally, raising blocks provide a screw adjustment to be made, which should aid the process.

                  Keep on doing this until the test piece is the same diameter at both ends. The lathe bed should now be free of twist.

                  If tapers persist, you have eliminated one source and can pursue other causes, such as bell mouthed chuck jaws, badly seated chuck, etc

                  Howard.

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