Myford speed 10 leadscrew

Myford speed 10 leadscrew

Home Forums Manual machine tools Myford speed 10 leadscrew

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  • #520455
    John Beresford
    Participant
      @johnberesford27902

      Hi everyone, this is my first posting to this forum. I’m looking to upgrade from my Clarke CL300M mini lathe to something bigger but not too big. Ive been looking at a nice long bed Speed 10 but the owner says the leadscrew has become somewhat corroded and it could do with replacing. Ive had a look on eBay and Myfords site but there’s nothing currently available. So the questions are if I clean up the lead screw as best I can how will some surface corrosion affect performance? Secondly has anyone any idea where I might find a replacement?

      No chance of any close up photos I’m afraid.

      I wont be doing any screw cutting at all so just using it for turning down long pieces.

      thanks

      #14138
      John Beresford
      Participant
        @johnberesford27902
        #520466
        Mick B1
        Participant
          @mickb1

          It's a difficult question to answer because it depends on the real degree of 'somewhat' and its location. If the driving flank of the thread's eaten away over a turn or more, and it's in the area where the tollpost or toolholder would be around 1 to 15 cm from the chuck face, then it's serious and likely to gall or score the corresponding halfnut flanks.

          What condition are the halfnuts in already, anyway? What assurance do you have that other significant components aren't affected?

          If it really is only surface corrosion and really does affect only the leadscrew it's unlikely to cause a serious problem, even if you do use it to cut threads – but it's hard to see how you're gonna know without close examination.

          #520470
          Hopper
          Participant
            @hopper

            If it does turn out to be unuseable there are several alternatives. An old dodge if the left hand, high-use end of the leadscrew is worn out or corroded you can cut the leadscrew and turn the threaded section end for end so the bad thread is down the right hand end where it never gets used. Leadscrew is put back together with a pin to hold it all true.

            Or you can buy Acme threaded bar from some UK supplier who I don't know off hand. It will usually be 8tpi Acme thread of the same diameter as original. Again, it will need cutting and adding to the original leadscrew with suitable pin etc.

            Or you could look into whether an ML7 leadscrew would fit. Not sure if that would be any easier to find though.

            #520481
            John Beresford
            Participant
              @johnberesford27902

              Here is a photo of the leadscrew. Im not sure if this is classed as bad or acceptable.c4e1694e-a48b-42b2-bf92-0b1f93467da6.jpeg

              #520487
              Hopper
              Participant
                @hopper

                Hard to tell from a pic but it looks a bit chatty and very worn about six inches from the left hand end. If the other end is better you could do the cut and flip mod mentioned above. You might want to have a good look at the rest of the lathe. If it is as worn as that section of leadscrew appears to be in the pic (and it is hard to tell from a pic) there could be issues beside the leadscrew. Check the headstock bearings for up and down play when you yank on a long bar held in the chuck. Put a steel ruler over the bed near the left end and see if there is a gap under it you can fit a feeler gauge into.

                #520524
                Mick B1
                Participant
                  @mickb1

                  Yes, it looks as much worn as corroded. Try closing the halfnuts on the worn bit of thread and check that the saddle is held solidly and won't rattle along the leadscrew under drive from the saddle handwheel, even if there's noticeable end float. Or get the owner to do so if you can't get to the lathe yourself.

                  Also try turning the end handwheel or heastock gear with the halfnuts closed and see if it drives the saddle along. Clamp the saddle and check that trying to turn the leadscrew doesn't pop the halfnuts open.

                  If it passes this lot, it'll *probably* do what you want.

                  #520673
                  John Beresford
                  Participant
                    @johnberesford27902

                    Thanks for replies and useful suggestions chaps. Ive been assured by the company Im buying from that the the leadscrew is a bit of surface rust and still completely usable so Im going to risk it.

                    #520676
                    Hopper
                    Participant
                      @hopper

                      Good luck with your new purchase and welcome to a whole new hobby of fettling antique machine tools. Be careful. It can take over your life.

                      #520678
                      Stephen Spindler
                      Participant
                        @stephenspindler87715

                        I was also looking at that Myford but I noticed the bullwheel has a chipped tooth.

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