Wanted 2 Pairs of Nuts!

[Martin King 2Participant @martinking2]

Hi All,

Just wondering if anyone out there either has or could make for me 2 Pairs of LH thread steel nuts?

I need 2 each of 7/32″ x 20 Whitworth LH steel nuts and 9/32″ x 24 Whitworth LH steel nuts.

I want these to be able to loosen the odd sized adjuster studs on STANLEY planes without damaging the somewhat fragile threads.

Crazy prices both here and USA for the taps & dies in these sizes.

Happy to offer beer coupons or donation to any charity..

Cheers, Martin

[GeorgineerParticipant @georgineer]

Are you sure they’re actually Whitworth threads? Neither of these is a standard Whitworth thread, whether left-hand or right-hand.  In my experience, Stanley tends to use American threads, even in British made tools.

Can you give us a bit more detail of the planes you are working on?

George

[Georgineer]

On Georgineer Said:

Are you sure they’re actually Whitworth threads? Neither of these is a standard Whitworth thread, whether left-hand or right-hand.  In my experience, Stanley tends to use American threads, even in British made tools.

Can you give us a bit more detail of the planes you are working on?

George

From what I’ve read elsewhere, yes they are non standard. and also Whitworth thread form.
Right hand taps are readily available; less so left hand
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184917338469

There’s a collectors group on Facebook, which in their files section, are a couple of documents about Stanley threads
https://www.facebook.com/groups/2755041141444228/

Back later, tea’s ready

Bill

[peak4Participant @peak4]

Here’s a couple of pages from the second pdf. Both are worth seeking out and reading, but outside of Facebook, I can’t find a current source.
I originally found these on an Australian page, which now seems to have some content corrupted/off-line
https://tttg.org.au/tttg/about-us
I believe the author is part of that group.

[cedric 1Participant @cedric]

<p style=”text-align: left;”>Might you be better to make a clamping device from two lengths of square brass bar bolted together with a suitably undersized hole drilled on the join? It might then be clamped on the stud and rotated.</p>
Or if access is a problem, similar could be made using the end of a brass bar suitably drilled and split with a clamping screw crosswise.

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

I would give Tracy Tools ltd a ring, find their details on the web. Always very helpful, and see what the cost of special taps would be. You may be surprised !

Bob

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

The point made by cedric1 is important.

You have started with a mindset that the only way to remove a stud is with two locknuts that fit onto that stud.

Perhaps investigate stud-removal techniques that do not require the items you seek.

I would try a close-fitting brass or aluminium split sleeve and then squeeze it hard in an ER collet chuck.

Are there not aftermarket suppliers of adjustment nuts for these planes? Buy two replacement nuts and remove material until they suit your purpose. Or contact the suppliers of such, who will have the correct taps and commission what you want.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

I would try TRACY TOOLS, if they haven’t got what you want then it may be a problem.   Noel.

[Martin King 2]

On 26 January 2026 at 16:58 Martin King 2 Said:

Crazy prices both here and USA for the taps & dies in these sizes.

What do you consider a sane price?

£11.95 for tap here:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185634528899

People are in business to make money. How many of these will the seller shift in a year? There is an economic concept called ‘opportunity cost’

That would be £6 per nut. Run off a few more and sell them for the same purpose. See how long it takes to make your money back.

—

The two documents cited by peak4 can be found as pdfs here and here:

https://forums.woodnet.net/attachment.php?aid=16417

https://forums.woodnet.net/attachment.php?aid=16418

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Thanks for those links

… excellent reading.

MichaelG.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

One can buy roller-clutch stud extractors or make a cam-type one..

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Roller and cam types are likely do damage the thread. OK on long engine studs where there is a length of plain shank

“I want these to be able to loosen the odd sized adjuster studs on STANLEY planes without damaging the somewhat fragile threads.”

[Speedy Builder5Participant @speedybuilder5]

I don’t know how tight the studs? are,  but you could 3D print a cube with a thread down the centre, and the saw cut down one side such that you have a thread which is split, then use “mole grips” to clamp on tight to the stud and away you go. I would suggest a cube of about 3/4″

No damage to the thread.

Bob

[Martin King 2Participant @martinking2]

Hi All,

it has taken me a while to get back on this and thanks for the interest and comments.

I tried Tracy Tools who were as helpful as always but they do not have any of those sizes.

i think that I will go the route of buying the nuts on EBay and tap & dies also; then try and recoup the outlay by making some nuts to sell.

The Stanley plane refurbishment movement is quite strong in UK.

Cheers, Martin

[DC31kParticipant @dc31k]

In the post at the top, one of the requirements was 7/32″ x 20 BSW LH.

Did anyone who read the two documents find any reference to this size?

Sure, there are losts of references to 12-20, which is dimensionally equivalent for practical purposes, but the hand is unspecified and the eBay seller who has the BSW version only offers RH versions.

Hence, are we sure that this size is required in LH thread?

 

[JohnFParticipant @johnf59703]

Hi, not Stanley but there is I believe a fair amount of similarity of the two brands so this link may be of interest ?

https://recordhandplanes.com/parts-and-sizes.html

John

Had a rummage and found this which has some historical interest

https://woodworkingmasterclasses.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/02/Stanley-Planes-and-Screw-Threads-Part-1.pdf

 

[Michael Gilligan]

On Michael Gilligan Said:

… excellent reading.

Would you have time or interest to investigate Part I page 16 concerning interchangeability of UN and BSW threads?

Reference is:

Practical Engineering Vol 30, No 758, September 1954, pp 319-20

It has also been cited on the Boxford io group but whether the two are independent discovery is difficult to say.

My searches on the publication are overwhelmed by the YouTube channel of the same name. Maybe I will try an interlibrary loan and see if they can find it.

[Nicholas FarrParticipant @nicholasfarr14254]

Hi, I’ve just had a look at my Record No. 4 plane, and that has a 7mm diameter LH thread of 55 degree Whitworth form, with a TPI of 24, adjustment screw. Now I think that these are deliberately made non standard so you have difficulty in making your own, or using other manufactures replacements, and while some will go to the trouble of making them, most would probably choose to buy from the original manufactured ones, and of course those that don’t have the gear or knowhow to make their own, have no choice.

Regards Nick.

[bernard towersParticipant @bernardtowers37738]

That wouldn’t be 7mm with an imperial thread would it??

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Unlikely mine measures about 7.1mm so just under the 9/32″ (7.14mm) major diameter of the thread. Which seems about right allowing for several decades of wear, nicks may be worn a bit more.

[MacolmParticipant @macolm]

Before spending real money, I would try a couple of scraps of wood (select type as necessary to get a good grip) clamped hard into the stud with visegrips/molewrench. The wood will form to the thread profile without damaging it. If too soft it will crush down before providing enough grip, in which case try a harder wood. Other possibilities are lead or a soft grade of aluminium, ensuring thickness is enough to enough to avoid the jaws indenting the thread.

[bernard towers]

On bernard towers Said:

That wouldn’t be 7mm with an imperial thread would it??

Hi, well actually it is 7.05mm. Mine isn’t worn very much at all, as although I’ve had it since about 1974, over that time it’s only had relatively occasional use, with respect to those used by a regular user, as I bought it for making my Disco speaker cabinets.

Regards Nick.

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