Tail stock Barrel

[VicParticipant @vic]

I've recently looked at some wood (sorry) turning Lathes and found that on some of them the barrel needs to be extended a fair amount, 30-40mm before a centre will engage properly. The Morse taper (in the shop) didn't have a tang on it so this isn't what's causing the problem. I'm guessing the barrels are either badly designed or manufactured. Anyone have any idea if this situation can be improved easily or is it something wood turners have to put up with? I'm wondering if chopping a bit off the end of the taper will help it engage without the barrel being extended so much. What do you think? It's a shame really as I already have four drill chucks, two on MT3 tapers for the mill and another two on MT2 for my Engineering Lathe. Looks like I'll have to buy another chuck and taper?!

[VicParticipant @vic]

[John Stevenson 1Participant @johnstevenson1]

Vic,

Very common problem and the Chinese are the worst for it. They can't design a tailstock to save their lives.

If you look at older UK and American designs that usually have the casting overhanging the cross slide, a bit swan necked. This gives you a start getting to reach the work and hiding more of the barrel.

The modern way is to use a slab fronted casting with stupidly short travels with the result that you run out of travel 8 miles before you get to the job in the chuck.

Don't know the reason other than it may be to do with quoting larger between centres distances ?

If you chop anything off it won't make it better, you will still have the same travels. The distance from ejection to end of travel will always be the same. Altering the barrel won't make any difference. To make a difference you need a longer screw and body to accommodate it.

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

Posted by John Stevenson on 19/07/2015 15:17:43:

If you chop anything off it won't make it better, you will still have the same travels. The distance from ejection to end of travel will always be the same. Altering the barrel won't make any difference. To make a difference you need a longer screw and body to accommodate it.

Can't agree with you there JS. On my 280 I originally had to wind out the barrel to 35mm on the scale before tooling would seat without hitting the screw. I chopped the ends off and now they all seat between 15 and 20mm so I have gained an extra 20mm of usable travel.

[VicParticipant @vic]

Thanks for the comments guys. Can't understand the Far East manufacturers, how difficult is it to copy something so simple?

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