ML7 – What to look for in buying / must have options

[Simon BParticipant @simonb]

Hello all,

This is my first post here so please be gentle with me.

I would like to buy a ML7 but would like to know what to look for when looking at lathes for sale. I have picked up the condition is more important than age advice but what should I look for and how do I tell a gleaming example from a pup that's going to give me more headaches than my experience can sort out?

Are there any 'must have' options that would make the buy / walk away decision?

By way of background, I plan to use the lathe for making small modelling tasks (small traction engine ultimate goal but much learning first I'm sure).

Any help / advice really appreciated.

Simon

[Simon BParticipant @simonb]

Advice / experience required

[Gordon AParticipant @gordona]

Greetings Simon,

Welcome to the forum. Please PM me, I have some information which may help.

Gordon.

[_Paul_Participant @_paul_]

Look out for broken backgear teeth which seem to be common and can be pricey and quite "interesting" to replace.

Has the machine been regularly lubricated (with oil) I've seen some with greasecups fitted to the spindle which is a no no.

Older machines have white metal spindle bearings if left unoiled they can "pick up" later versions have a hardened spindle and Phosphor bronze bearings which seem to suffer abuse better and can rev higher.

Bed wear; if the saddle travel is tight at both ends and sloppy in the middle it's worn but depending on the type of wear some adjustments/modifications can be made.

Sloppy cross & topslide screws would indicate a fair amount of use but arent impossible to replace.

Worn saddle handwheel bush not a hard job to replace but you may find the gears/rack worn as well.

Some leadscrew wear IMHO not that much of a problem, worn half nuts will be though check for positive engagement.

Nice to haves would be:

• Re-settable dials (the little fixed Mazak ones are a pain)
• Myford QC gearbox (these regularly sell for £500 plus alone)
• Clutch
• Driven by a 3 phase motor & VFD/inverter.

I've probably missed a few things but have no doubt someone else will contribute.

Regards

Paul

[joegibParticipant @joegib]

There's a Myford document setting out points to look for here:

Myford Document

Note that there's a link at the bottom of the page to Part 2.

Joe

[Eric CoxParticipant @ericcox50497]

Like all purchases, pick a reputable company and not one that's likely to go "belly up" in the forseeable future.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Add to Paul's list, a four, and three jaw chuck, face plate, centers etc., Also if possible steadies, if you buy an Asian lathe these are all standard parts. Ian S C

[KWILParticipant @kwil]

Preferably take an experienced Myford owner with you.

[Ady1Participant @ady1]

Buy Spareys book "The amateurs lathe" and read it

[David LittlewoodParticipant @davidlittlewood51847]

Simon,

To add to the above, all of which I agree with, if you find a decent Super 7 at a price you can afford, it is a decidedly superior machine. Among other things, it has a more robust headstock spindle bearing, a countershaft clutch, a longer cross-slide (useful for milling), a far superior topslide design (the ML7 one is particularly inept as its rotation is limited), re-settable dials, and a leadscrew handwheel (an order of magnitude more accurate for setting the saddle).

Oh, and one other important thing to look for, whichever model you are contemplating, examine the inside of the headstock taper carefully. Having made sure it is clean of nasty sharp swarf (and if the owner leaves swarf in there it is not a brilliant sign), carefully stick you finger inside and rotate. If you feel any scoring or roughness it is a sign that the taper has been abused quite badly, and as it is hardened it is virtually impossible to cure. The tailstock taper is less crucial, as (a) they are not hardened, and (b) in the worst case, they can be replaced without too much difficulty. They are also far more likely to suffer scoring from tooling which loses its grip (mainly drill chucks) and it isn't quite as much of a black mark against the owner

David

Edited By David Littlewood on 14/11/2012 12:08:27

[Martin Walsh 1Participant @martinwalsh1]

Why go for a ML7 IMHO the super 7 is a vastly better lathe

The QC gearbox in my opinion is a must have

the most important thing is bed wear if the saddle is loose the headstock end but gets very tight when winding it the other way dont buy.

having the bed reground is very very expensive to have done

Best Wishes Martin

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

Super 7 If you can find one with a hard bed , if not, a Super 7 any way. I' suggested that my nephew tries to get his Grandfathers Tri Lever ML 7. Ian S C

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