Grinding Rest.

[Alan .204Participant @alan-204]

I finished making my first tool its the H Hall rest the simple one, I ordered a cone shaped grinding disc for my bench grinder but its far two coarse I got it from RDG I would like to know if any one knows where I can get another one from it would need to be quit smooth compared the the grey one I bought, I think the spindle on the grinder is 12mm I had to make a bush to fit the grey disc I have what you would call standard bench grinders so I'm looking for a cone shaped disc for that, or any advice on the disc would be appreciated, many thanks in advance for any reply's.

Regards Alan.

[Alan .204Participant @alan-204]

[Harold Hall 1Participant @haroldhall1]

Pleased to learn you have made the rest Alan

For the wheel have a look here

**LINK**

Obtain a white wheel with a grit size of 60 and a hardness of J or K

Even if you have a 150mm wheel size grinder you could go for a 125mm size wheel to keep the cost down

Harold

[Carl DavisParticipant @carldavis]

Hi Alan and Harold. May I thank you for posting the link to our shop – the gesture is appreciated.

As a good will gesture to all of your members may i offer our web site promotion code – this is for 15% discount throughout our shop.

Promotion code – MIDWS013 (Type this in at checkout)

http://www.midlandabrasives.com

[TrevorKParticipant @trevork]

Hi

I've just finished making the (simple) rest and just setting up my Creusen grinder which is fitted with a 150×40 AO wheel. My intention was to do tool and drill sharpening on the side of the wheel rather than the front face, so I don't have to consider the ground surface being concave. I am planning to be able to fix the rest base radially or axially using magnetic bases. I'm not sure though about dressing the side of the wheel, is it OK to do this using a t-shaped dressing tool?

regards Trev

[Carl DavisParticipant @carldavis]

Hi Trev

You shouldn't have a problem using the t-shaped dressing tool, but generally we would recommend a Side Hand Dressing Tool (see link below).

**LINK**

Unfortunately this has just gone out of stock but we expect stock in the next week or two.

Regards

Carl

[Harold Hall 1Participant @haroldhall1]

I assume Trev that as your grinder has 40mm wide wheels that it is primarily a woodworkers grinder, does it therefore run slower than the norm, 1500 rather than 3000. However, I do not think that to be a problem, just interested, though it would be good to know the hardness rating.

As to dressing the side of the wheel I see no reason why you cannot dress the side of the wheel. The problem with doing this is that eventually the wheel can be thinned to a point of being dangerous. With a 40mm wide that is going to take a long long long time, in the home workshop that means never. The same would even apply to a more normal width wheel in the home workshop.

As you have made my (simple) grinding rest you probably have used my Tool and Cutter Sharpening book for the design. If you go to page 31 you will see that grinding is normally done on the corner of the wheel, see Sk1 C and F

To reestablish the corner, dressing either face would do, though perhaps ideally, both.

There are of course some time when you use the faces of the wheel, when using a swing drill sharpening jig on the side for example so dressing the side will be necessary occasionally if you are intending to use the method rather that the four facet method which uses the corners.

Harold

[TrevorKParticipant @trevork]

Harold – the grinder runs at 2850; the wide wheel is a WA-100-F-7V so somewhat softer and finer grit than you mention. Would you recommend a change as you suggest or will this do the job but wear faster? The second wheel is NAS-80-P-6V (for carbide sharpening?)

For drill sharpening I'm intending to use the swing jig, the 'modern jig' you mention in your book, mounted on the fine feed base by Jim Wheltren (MEW 141), hoping this produces better results than the basic jig. Need to do some experimentation with this, fortunately I've got plenty of drills to play with.

Carl – thanks, I wasn't aware there was a tool for the job, added to my shopping list

Regards Trev

[Alan .204Participant @alan-204]

Well hers one I made earlier, its ok for the first thing I've made just a couple of areas I need to sort but it works and that's the main thing, Harold thanks for the link for the grinding disc have ordered one and it should be here tomorrow, thanks Harold and also for the books, I have a few of them now and I find them really helpful, I suppose it means your getting better when each part you make you look back at what you made before and think that's crap.

Alan.

[Alan .204Participant @alan-204]

Not the best photos' in the word I agree in my defence i took them with my I phone.

Regards Alan.

[Harold Hall 1Participant @haroldhall1]

Unfortunately, Trev, my recommendations for the wheels to be used are based on those published elsewhere and my findings when using wheels within that range. Once out of the range I have very little knowledge.

I would though say, there would be nothing to be lost by using the one you have first. Then,if it wears rapidly, due to the relatively soft structure (F) and or it is slow to remove metal due to its fine grit (100) then that is the time to look for another wheel.

Having made a very quick search for a 150mm x 40mm that conforms to the 60/J or K spec I have not been able to find one. Could you perhaps use a Cup style wheel which would be more readily available.

If you go down that route though using the drill sharpening jig may be a problem. I think the point being ground stays in one place, but am not sure. When I next go into the workshop I will set it up and see if that is the case. Unfortunately, at the moment that is not possible.

You can of course try this out your self, the cup wheels only having an 8mm face. Other wise you may have to change wheels for drill grinding.

I assume the wheel is really intended for such things as plane blades and chisels where a very fine edge is required and, with there being so little metal to absorb the heat generated, a wheel that cuts as cool as is possible is required.

Harold

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