What is this tool?

What is this tool?

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  • #870873
    jaCK Hobson
    Participant
      @jackhobson50760

      I asked a few years ago but my search skills in this site are poor and I can’t find the post.

      IMG_20261022_182404

      I think it might be worth another try as ‘AI’ has been invented since then and I had a conversation with it to see what it thought:

      ———————————————————-

      Title Idea:
      Need help identifying this antique English shop-made tool/jig stamped “W. H. MEARS”

      Physical Description:
      Base: A 3-inch high, dark English oak block with mounting screw holes at both ends (designed to be permanently fixed to a bench or surface).
      Metal Bed: A flat, smooth length of steel roughly 11 inches long and 1 inch wide, screwed onto the top of the oak base. The sides of the steel plate are entirely hand-filed, leaving a visible manual finish.
      The Clamp: Located at one end of the steel plate. It is a 1.5-inch long piece of steel, slightly bevelled on the underside to make sharp contact only at its front and back edges. It is tightened via a central thumbscrew.
      Capacity & Clearances: Because the tightening screw goes straight through the middle of the clamp, material cannot pass under it. It can only hold the literal dead end of a piece of material (clamping depth is limited to about 1cm). The vertical capacity is under 1/16th of an inch.
      Wear Marks & Residue: There is a distinct horizontal scratch running lengthwise halfway down the right-hand edge of the steel plate, which might be a sign of  wear from repetitive tool use. There was also brittle, flaky, amber-colored residue (likely old animal hide glue or shellac) trapped in the hairline gap between the steel plate and the oak block.
      Maker’s Mark: The name “W. H. MEARS” is punched in a single strike with a common outline border onto the wooden oak base.

      Best Guesses So Far:
      Because the edges are entirely hand-filed and the name stamp features a custom journeyman’s border, this is a bespoke, one-of-a-kind craftsman-made fixture rather than a mass-produced commercial tool. Based on the 1cm dead-end clamp, the 12-inch length the top theories are:
      A Marquetry / Inlay Stringing Trimming Jig: Used by a 19th-century English cabinetmaker or musical instrument maker to prepare decorative inlay borders. A 1/16″ thick strip of wood stringing would have its 1cm tip anchored in the clamp, allowing the artisan to pull it taut down the bed. A specialized edge-scraper or “scratch stock” with a guide fence would be drawn down the right edge (causing the horizontal scratch) to shave the inlay to a perfect width. The flaky residue would be hide glue/shellac used to stabilize the brittle wood.
      A Precision Filing or Component Dressing Block: Used by a clockmaker, watchmaker, or gunsmith to dress or polish ultra-thin, flat steel components (such as clock click springs or regulator scales). The 1cm tail of the flat stock was clamped, and an abrasive stone or file with a edge-guide created the track on the right side.
      A Hand-Drawn Wire/Pin Straightening Block: A tool used to pull and flatten fine coiled metal wire or pin stock against a smooth surface, though the absolute flatness of the steel bed (no grooves) makes the flat inlay theory slightly more likely.

      —————–

      My guess is that you put sandpaper under the clamp and then use it for sanding/polishing somthing held between 2 hands. Maybe sharpening or stropping.

      I can’t remember if I got it in a second hand tool shop, or an auction of a clock makers workshop.

      #870910
      bernard towers
      Participant
        @bernardtowers37738

        if it was used for gripping sandpaper wouldn’t it have a clamp both ends?

        #870920
        Nigel Graham 2
        Participant
          @nigelgraham2

          The name is likely of its owner and/or maker, but not necessarily of a business called “W.H. Mears.”

          My first thought is a draw-filing jig rather as we used in my school’s metalwork-shop (whose own versions used plane-iron clamps). If so the user was clearly very skilled so as not to round off the bar by the file overhanging the work!

          The marquetry tool is an attractive idea but I’d be surprised if the wood was glued to the plate. How would you remove it afterwards without damage?

          I think the “precision dressing-block” the most likely. In the same vein possibly for burnishing bronze leaf-springs to harden them to the appropriate elasticity – and here we might consider not only clock parts but also large electrical switch contact-blades or brush-holder springs. An edge guide would make sense to guard against imparting a twist to the spring by slightly out-of-parallel burnishing.

          I suppose we can never be certain because it was likely made by one man to suit his own way of working? Even that angle of slope may have been chosen as just right for him.

          ===

          [I have inherited a lovely carpentry beam-compass, made by a former friend and neighbour of my parents. Close inspection revealed fine hand-filing of the brass end-stock and slide, one with the owner’s initials and a year stamped in it. Some arithmetic suggested he may have made it as an apprentice-piece. I have used it occasionally, too.]

           

          #870969
          Macolm
          Participant
            @macolm

            A long shot – has the top surface of the plate had diamond dust rolled onto it to make a lapping plate? This was quite a common technique before easy availability of diamond stones. Many car cylinder boring bars had such a rotating touch up lap that was used before every cut to keep the carbide cutter at peak sharpness. The steel surface normally does not get marked by doing this as only light pressure is needed.

            #870971
            Peter Cook 6
            Participant
              @petercook6

              Old barbers razor strop, or knife strop? Screwed to the table. Leather strop under the clamp at one end, held down by the barber at the other. Plate supports the strop while in use. Wear out the leather, cut a piece off and reclamp.

              #870972
              Hollowpoint
              Participant
                @hollowpoint

                Looks like the sort of thing you would see in a barbers shop. A leather strop for sharpening a cut-throat razor. One end attached at the top, the other gripped and pulled taught over the flat surface.

                EDIT- Peter, looks like you beat me to it! 😂

                #870976
                jaCK Hobson
                Participant
                  @jackhobson50760

                  Surface is parallel to ‘bench’. The photo distorts (and its actually fixed to a door jam at the moment just to show off as a curiosity).

                  If sharpening/stropping then you could hold the leather/sandpaper with one had while holding the tool to be stropped with the other – then you can raise the abrasive off the flat bed slightly to round over the edge – concave edge for toughness or that very final strop.

                  I quite like the idea of a clamp for working on clock hands or clock springs but the surface is unblemished so i doubt it.

                  At one point AI suggested book binding.

                  I tried AI again today and it became pretty convinced it is to do with  marquetry  citing ‘model engineer and workshop’ magazine and linking directly to this thread! Proof!

                   

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