What is the correct procedure for annealing brass? There is plenty of info on the webb but just about every piece of advice seems to be contradicted by the next article.

I am making some petrol filler necks for vintage motorcycles from CZ 26130 brass which is an arsenic containing cartridge brass.It is listed as good for cold working but only fair for hot working. I need to bend a small tab at right angles to the main axis and as-supplied tubing when bent cold, cracks on the outside of the bend. Wall thickness of the tube is 1.63 mms.

In particular, does the brass need cooling rapidly or slowly after heating?

Somehow I have a lot more confidence in the forum and its contributors than You-tube

Hi Chris,

The concept of silver soldering is very simple.

But have no illusions, it is a skillful process. There is no shortcut to experience gained through practice.

Jason is partly right in his recommendations but what works for one person may not be suitable for another. Question why he has made this recommendation. I suspect that he has done so because it works for him and, more importantly, the way he uses it.

Like Jason, you will only be successful if you adopt and adhere to the underlying principle of the process – capillary flow. These forums are full of problems involving silver soldering. In every case the problem lay in one place – behind the torch!

Everything that you do to make your joints should promote capillary flow of the alloy. That statement holds for any alloy you use or from where you buy it.

Check on your joint design. Set the right length and gap

Check that your joint is clean and oxide free at 650 deg C. That is the role of the flux – not you! Your job is to pick the right one. EF flux is sold by a company CuP Alloys, with which I have strong connections, but it may not be the right one. They have others.

Check on your heating technique to ensure that there are no cold spots. It's a hot spot you require to get the alloy to flow where you want it – into the joint! Heat the joint not the rod. 50 years experience in this field has taught me that in the hands of an amateur an oxy-gas torch being used in isolation will create more problems (cracks, leaks) than it perceives to solve.

Ask yourself, what do I want from the alloy? Do I need to perform any other silver soldering operations subsequently? Do I have sufficient heat to make the joint? Propane is good for the vast majority of joints and more flexible and forgiving. 455 is sold by CuP Alloys, but it is not always the best alloy for every application. Others, perhaps more suitable and cheaper, ones are available.

Now make your alloy selection. One thing you can ignore with silver solder is joint strength. Braze properly and all silver soldered joints will have a greater strength than the parent materials.

Decide where you are going to apply the alloy. Do you want rod or wire? What size? These are all simple questions with simple answers as long as you apreciate what you want to achieve.

There are folks about who depend on giving sound technical advice, selling the right materials and ensuring you produce high quality joints in order to pay their mortgages and pension contributions.

But please beforehand, understand what you are doing and why. Then go and do it.

You will be successful

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Keith

I help to run the SMEE Polly course, where we teach the basics of model engineering by building the Polly engine. I'd guess we've seen approaching 150 of them built by students over the years we've run the course. Forming that boiler seam neatly in rolled sheet is pretty tricky and we've always avoided it for beginners by making the boiler from 1 3/4" copper tube. Stronger, and very much easier to get a neat and leak-tight boiler. We supply a piece of the tube to our students, but you can use 42 mm plumbers pipe which is a bit easier to find in short lengths – though you have to change quite a few other dimensions to avoid problems.