Boxford Brook Crompton motor insulation testing advice,please.

Boxford Brook Crompton motor insulation testing advice,please.

Home Forums General Questions Boxford Brook Crompton motor insulation testing advice,please.

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  • #505236
    Kevin Cobley
    Participant
      @kevincobley97900

      Having dismantled the wiring on my Boxford C lathe, I discovered that it was 'shocking'. No earthing and some wires not rated for mains voltage, so a fire risk as well as unsafe.. (I should mention that my lathe is heavily modified by the previous owner.)

      So my question: can I expect the motor on the lathe, which is I believe, the original Brook Crompton motor, to pass modern insulation tests, and to what voltage?

      The reason I ask us that it measures 60Mohms when only tested to 250V which is less than the 160Mohms required to pass (the motor works OK,btw)

      Is it possible that it just needs a good clean or is this a common issue?

      Thanks for any advice,

      Kevin.

      #27750
      Kevin Cobley
      Participant
        @kevincobley97900
        #505253
        Andrew Tinsley
        Participant
          @andrewtinsley63637

          It looks a bit iffy. However I am not a stickler for rules and regulations. (Howls of protest from certain members), as long as you have a good solid earth to the motor) AND it has a modern earth leakage trip in the supply line I would happily use it. The worst that can happen is that the supply will trip out if the earth leakage is too high.

          However, that is what I would do, the official answer would probably be to condemn the motor out of hand. I have a small 3 phase motor in delta, which checks out fine on a 500 volt test but has a high earth leakage when run on a VDF, just goes to show that the output of a VDF can have some high voltage transients.

          Andrew.

          #505256
          Dave Halford
          Participant
            @davehalford22513
            Posted by Andrew Tinsley on 04/11/2020 10:41:42:

            It looks a bit iffy. However I am not a stickler for rules and regulations. (Howls of protest from certain members), as long as you have a good solid earth to the motor) AND it has a modern earth leakage trip in the supply line I would happily use it. The worst that can happen is that the supply will trip out if the earth leakage is too high.

            However, that is what I would do, the official answer would probably be to condemn the motor out of hand. I have a small 3 phase motor in delta, which checks out fine on a 500 volt test but has a high earth leakage when run on a VDF, just goes to show that the output of a VDF can have some high voltage transients.

            Andrew.

            I suspect you'll find the earth leakage is from the VFD and not your motor.

            #505257
            John Haine
            Participant
              @johnhaine32865

              Especially if you have a EMC filter…

              #505258
              Dave Halford
              Participant
                @davehalford22513
                Posted by Kevin Cobley on 04/11/2020 09:04:45:

                Having dismantled the wiring on my Boxford C lathe, I discovered that it was 'shocking'. No earthing and some wires not rated for mains voltage, so a fire risk as well as unsafe.. (I should mention that my lathe is heavily modified by the previous owner.)

                So my question: can I expect the motor on the lathe, which is I believe, the original Brook Crompton motor, to pass modern insulation tests, and to what voltage?

                The reason I ask us that it measures 60Mohms when only tested to 250V which is less than the 160Mohms required to pass (the motor works OK,btw)

                Is it possible that it just needs a good clean or is this a common issue?

                Thanks for any advice,

                Kevin.

                Are you measuring the motor disconnected from any other wiring or at the 13amp plug?

                It's possible the switch is leaking.

                Old motor insulation is more liable to breakdown through heat than modern stuff. Try a strip and clean, my motor was full of plastic swarf and so it cooked it's self. Yours might have a load of cast iron dust in it.

                #505260
                Kevin Cobley
                Participant
                  @kevincobley97900

                  The supply is RCD protected so I'm not concerned from that point of view. I guess I want to know if I should expect it to pass or not. If it should pass then I will need to strip it down and find out what the problem is and maybe even have to source a replacement.

                  I already have a lot to do to rewire and reassemble this lathe.I was considering changing the motor drive but was hoping to do that at a later date.

                  Kevin.

                  #505262
                  Emgee
                  Participant
                    @emgee
                    Posted by Kevin Cobley on 04/11/2020 09:04:45:

                    Having dismantled the wiring on my Boxford C lathe, I discovered that it was 'shocking'. No earthing and some wires not rated for mains voltage, so a fire risk as well as unsafe.. (I should mention that my lathe is heavily modified by the previous owner.)

                    So my question: can I expect the motor on the lathe, which is I believe, the original Brook Crompton motor, to pass modern insulation tests, and to what voltage?

                    The reason I ask us that it measures 60Mohms when only tested to 250V which is less than the 160Mohms required to pass (the motor works OK,btw)

                    Is it possible that it just needs a good clean or is this a common issue?

                    Thanks for any advice,

                    Kevin.

                    Kevin

                    Where does the 160Mohms pass level resistance level come from ?

                    Best do an insulation test at 500v on lines to frame, unless regs have changed recently 1.0 meg ohm or greater is a pass. Ensure the motor body is adequately earthed, 0.1ohm reading between motor and starter would be acceptable.

                    Emgee

                     

                    Edited By Emgee on 04/11/2020 11:35:03

                    #505267
                    Hopper
                    Participant
                      @hopper

                      If you have the motor off, its a small job to open it up, clean the swarf out, inspect it and put new bearings in while your are at it. For home hobby use no need to agonise too much over modern industrial WHS standards applied to vintage machinery.. (But do use common sense of course.)

                      Edited By Hopper on 04/11/2020 11:46:18

                      #505283
                      Andrew Tinsley
                      Participant
                        @andrewtinsley63637

                        I agree about stripping and cleaning out the motor. If it has an centrifugal switch make sure it is free and clean the contacts. I have a stock of single and 3 phase motors overhauled tested and ready to go. At least I don't get down time due to failed motors!

                        With regard to the small 1/4 horse 3 phase motor, it certainly isn't the VFD which is tripping the earth leakage. I tested 3 motors on it with no problem, the fourth one instantly trips the earth leakage device and the error signal on the VFD says that a phase is down to earth. I am running in delta with an Altivar VFD outputting 240 volts, 3 phase

                        My Megger outputs 500 volts dc and the earth winding resistance is beyond the measuring capacity of the meter.. Pity I don't have 1000V DC available. that would nail it, I am sure.

                        Andrew.

                        #505299
                        Kevin Cobley
                        Participant
                          @kevincobley97900

                          Thanks for the comments. I double checked – you are correct that the pass limit should be 1Mohms, though guidance is to investigate for <2Mohms. I was mislead by my new (to me ) digital tester which allows you to set the pass impedance for different standards – should know better So the motor may be OK, though I still expect open circuit to case, so it may be full of swarf as you say – hadnt thought about cast iron swarf..

                          I measured just the motor. The motor is the far side of a pwm controller – 1980's tech by the look of the PCB – it has RCA power transistors ! If I PAT tested the lathe in total it would definately have failed. I started out at 250V to be cautious, but yes it should be tested at 1kV.

                          As a cautionary tale, the mains wiring was awful. 3A flex twin core, no earth, no gromets through the stand walls, to the latching on off switch – to be replaced with a zero volt release switch and emergency stop switch. From there, the live and neutral to the controller, but also a switched live to a changeover relay for reversing the motor. The later fed on the multiway alarm cable used for the speed potentiometer, probably rated 50V ! Terminals were taped over with masking tape, and where they were touching there are char marks on the tape. Also dry solder joints in several places resulting in heating. Amazing it didnt burn the previous owner's house down. I guess it didnt run long enough to get going.

                          The lathe has many mechanical modifications as well, including having the spindle modified to accept 2c rivett collets – sadly the nose end is missing, so my first turning job will be to make a new one. There is also a non standard gearbox for the leadscrew, and various small gadgets I havent entirely worked out the purpose of.

                          Having said that it comes with lots of gear, and it seems to be in fairly good nick. I think its had the bed re-ground, as the apron sits low so that the handwheel has rather excessive slack on the rack.

                          Sounds like its worth stripping the motor down anyway, so I may do that.

                          Thanks,

                          Kevin.

                          #505308
                          Oldiron
                          Participant
                            @oldiron

                            Hi Kevin. Not sure that grinding the ways would give a lot of slack as they would only remove a few thou. More likely to be the pinon or the rack is worn or possibly both. Also the grinding of the 7 faces of the ways would be a very expensive job.

                            regards

                            #505311
                            Thomas Cooksley
                            Participant
                              @thomascooksley79020

                              Hi everyone, as Emgee said the pass mark is 1.0 M ohms, so your 60 M ohms is fine. You should do your insulation test after getting the earthing right. Again Emgee is correct in saying the pass for this is 0.1 ohm. It should be checked between the earth pin on the plug and the frame of the motor. In theory this should be tested at a current of several amps but unless you have access to a portable appliance tester a multimeter will have to suffice. Hope this helps Tom.

                              #505312
                              Robert Atkinson 2
                              Participant
                                @robertatkinson2

                                +1 for Thomas's comments.

                                Robert G8RPI,

                                #505314
                                Ex contributor
                                Participant
                                  @mgnbuk

                                  If you take it apart, put the stator in a warm dry place for a couple of days. Depending on how it has been stored it may be damp.

                                  I recently overhauled a 1hp-ish 3 phase motor at work that had been sat outside for around 14 years. The NDE bearing was rusted siezed & the insulation resistance to ground "as found" was low 10s M Ohms. After 24 hours with the stator sat on top of the convection heater in my hovel the resistance had improved to several hundreds M Ohms – both readings taken at 1000V. Re-assembled with new bearings, it worked fine. Had the motor been a standard type I would probably have replaced it, but it was from a gearmotor unit & had a non-standard drive end.

                                  Nigel B.

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