I have made the Worden and made some accessories to help sharpen tools, The only limitation I find is the height that you can work at though there is a modification to raise and lower the Motor and the stone.

The table is pre-cut but not flat so I sanded it with a sander. I did not feel like hammering it to get it flat.

It is substantial and witll grind milling cutters and Lathe tools, the table can be set to the angle required though the angle scale was not supplied and I made my own.

You need a set of number stamps to stamp the degree marks on the table with the help of a home made jug

My ML10 would not swing one part but I am sure an ML7 would Parts supplied are adequate for the job and wiring is easy.

John,

I see you've had precious little response to your original query – which seems to have been truncated somewhat. If it's of any use to you, I built a Worden Mk3 some while ago and documented it in an album, with short notes accompanying, here:

Worden Mk3 Album

I incorporated a few changes (I called them 'improvements&#39 and added a table angle indicator as Clive did, but I pinched the method from Bob Unitt's site. I also redrew all the drawings, converting to metric units to suit my personal preference. All since lost, unfortunately, along with many,many, others in the great hard drive crash of 2018!

I found the construction to be a straight-forward procedure and the operation of the completed kit quite satisfactory, but in my case, under-used. The stamping of the table division numbers needs, as Clive says, a simple jig and a steady hand, of which I possess only the former.

I should add that I have since sold the machine on and now use a surface grinder with a Stevenson's jig to sharpen my end mills. Blunt drills I tend to treat as consumables, I'm afraid.

John

NDIY et al,

The original post said words to the effect that John (Rudd) was considering the purchase and construction of said kit and did anyone have any comments as per the title? Unfortunately the post was inserted twice in error and one was removed and the other edited so that it appeared blank. (Possibly by different moderators?) I happened to read the original post before it was altered so was able to respond as I have, albeit a couple of days later.

Over to the rest of you …….

John

Jolly good!

Glad to have been of help to someone in return for all the assistance that I've had over the years.

John H

I made a Worden from a partially started, and abandonned, secondhand kit, so it is probably an early one, with an already graduated table.

To my mind the direct drive from the motor runs the wheel a little slowly. BUT it does the job, so it can't be that bad.

On mine, the fiducial line on the holder is hard to see under the adjuster, so additional lines were scribed five degrees each side of it, to make setting easier, (as long as I remember to make the mental allowance for the extra setting lines! )

To aid setting of the slope angle of the table, I drilled the knurled clampwheels for a tommy bar. 

I think that Jacques Maurel made up a worm drive arrangement for adjusting the angle of the table. That is a j ob somewhere on the Round Tuit!  

For drill grinding, I did not make all the individual collets. There would have been far too many to cover the drills that I have.

I made the original drill grinding accessory, with the 31 degree block. To this I added a piece of 1" square steel, drilled right through, and with an internal taper, and an external thread to take an ER20 closing nut, at one end, and bought a set of ER20 collets.

This allows drills of all sizes from 1 mm to 13 mm as well as Imperial, to be ground. Later I found that Giles Parkes had done something similar, a long time before me

It is likely that the clamp nut will need to have the back turned at an angle to allow it to sit closer to the holder.

Currently, I am slowiy starting to make up a holder and clamp, based on the Mk2 drill grinding attachment, to take blacksmiths drills.

Four facet drill grinding is fairly easy with this set up. But the table needs to be set square to the face of the wheel, and the cutting edge of the drill needs to set vertical with the aid of a square, To assist grinding the correct face of the drill, the rear end face of the square holder has been stamped A, B, C, and D. .

The Slitting Saw attachment required modification. In the original form, slackening the clamp to index the saw lost the position relative to the wheel. I still have the ruined saw to show for it! The fixture was modified so that the saw can be unclamped to index, without slackening the position of the saw location.

With fear and trepidation, and great care, a few End Mills have been sharpened, for the first time.

I made an aluminium drawer, to fit between the reinforcing bars in the base, to store the ER collets, a shop made spanner for the Clamp Nut, and the spanners and Allen keys applicable to the machine. The ER 20 collets sit in a grid of holes drilled into a bit of chipboard.

It may not be the most universal cutter grinder, but for the cost and within the limitations, it does a good job.

Howard.

Edited By Howard Lewis on 11/10/2020 18:10:34

I heard back from the builder of this in EDMES:

"The problem with the tool holder is that it is only 2 1/8" wide, slotted each end to take 1/2" tools The problem arise when the tool holder is attached as the base which is 2" wide a long tool cannot be secured in it. I am going to make anothe holder witha minimum widthof 3 1/8" (better 3 1/4&quot."

Hope this helps someone.