Hoover Motor 2291 GAR: Wiring

This topic has 11 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 18 July 2015 at 10:18 by Les Jones 1.

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17 July 2015 at 19:22 #197064
richard3267
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@richardrogalewski21509
Hi. I have a Hoover motor model 2291 GAR. I don't know how to wire it up. It might be missing a start capacitor. Please see the drawing I made. Can someone please tell me how to wire up this motor? Thank you.

As per the drawing: There are six wires numbered 1 to 6 the numbers I've circled. Three windings. There are 5 terminals marked, 1, 2, 3,4, 6. There is continuity between terminals 1 and 6, with no wires connected the terminals. Otherwise no other instances of continuity between terminals when all wires have been disconnected from them.

The resistance value between wires 3 and 6 varies when I rotate the rotor, seems to go from zero to 40 Ohms. Don't know why..

Live and Neutral shown as it was wired when I got motor.

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 17/07/2015 19:24:19
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17 July 2015 at 19:22 #23987
richard3267
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@richardrogalewski21509
17 July 2015 at 20:21 #197070
richard3267
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@richardrogalewski21509
Aah. The centrifugal switch is connected to wires 3 and 6 (terminals 2 and 4).. So, the question mark shown is not a winding but a switch. That needs to be in series with the start winding, which is wires 2 and 4 (1 and 3). The main winding must be wires 1 and 5 (terminals 1 and 4).

Presumably given what is on the name plate, this motor needs a capacitor in series with the start winding and the centrifugal switch?

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 17/07/2015 20:23:16
17 July 2015 at 20:24 #197072
John Rudd
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@johnrudd16576
Yes you are correct….it will need a capacitor in series with the start winding to get things going …..

Just make sure the centrifugal switch is not sticky….
17 July 2015 at 20:45 #197074
richard3267
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@richardrogalewski21509
Hi. Yes, that switch is temperamental. The start capacitor connects between terminals 2 and 3. That puts the start winding and the switch in series with it. At the moment no capacitor, so it cannot start.

I wonder what value the capacitance was for this motor.
17 July 2015 at 21:30 #197079
richard3267
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@richardrogalewski21509
Also, what lubricant should I use for this 1/6th HP Hoover motor? Can I use -3-in-1 oil or does it need to be something else? Thanks.
18 July 2015 at 08:08 #197098
richard3267
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@richardrogalewski21509
I have a similar Hoover motor, different case style, same HP rating but different RPM of 950. The capacitor is 120uF. I guess this 2291 GAR motor capacitor would be the same or near.

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 18/07/2015 08:13:54
18 July 2015 at 08:24 #197102
Les Jones 1
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@lesjones1
Hi Richard,
120 uF is about the value I would expect. It is worth trying it. Confirm that the 950 RPM motor works before removing it. Also fix the fault with the centrifugal switch first. It should not change it's resistance when the motor is rotated slowly. It should be near zero ohms when the motor is stopped or rotated at low speed. It should change to being open circuit (Or at least many meg ohms ) when the motor reaches near its rated speed. Assuming the motor works the the capacitor from the other motor I would suggest fitting a new one as the capacitor is probably very old.

Les.
18 July 2015 at 09:14 #197107
richard3267
Participant
@richardrogalewski21509
Hi. The 950 RPM motor has the 120uF capacitor with it, I've checked it and it's only gives an insulation of about 8K Ohms. Not surprising as it was made in 1948. Pity, because I would have used that on this 1425 RPM motor that I'm wanting to use just now I'll be buying then two 120uF capacitors, because both my Hoover motors need new ones.
18 July 2015 at 09:18 #197109
richard3267
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@richardrogalewski21509
As to the switch, there is about 1/8 inch play in the shaft. Perhaps I need to tighten that up by inserting a washer on the shaft. 1/8 inch play might not be good for the operation of the switch.
18 July 2015 at 09:32 #197113
richard3267
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@richardrogalewski21509
Sometimes you can reform old electrolytics. I suppose you can reform non polarized electroyltics, which is the type of capacitor used, I guess, in motor starting..

http://www.vintage-radio.com/projects/capacitor-reformer.html

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 18/07/2015 09:33:54

Edited By Richard Rogalewski on 18/07/2015 09:34:28
18 July 2015 at 10:18 #197128
Les Jones 1
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@lesjones1
Hi Richard,
I have not seen the design of the centrifugal switch on your particular type of motor so it is difficult to know why its contact resistance is changing as the motor is rotated. On the ones I have seen when the bob weights fly out it moves a collar along the shaft which causes the switch to open. Possibly the end float may be allowing the collar to be touching the switch when it should not.

I would not even attempt to reform such old capacitors. Just buy new ones.

Les.
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