Tilting table getting there.

This topic has 15 replies, 7 voices, and was last updated 29 October 2012 at 23:11 by MICHAEL WILLIAMS.

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25 October 2012 at 18:23 #101898
Raymond Anderson
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@raymondanderson34407
Hi All,

Have got about half way through making my new tilting table.It has 190

degrees of tilt *95 /-95 It is mostly from Meehanite, apart from the 2 shafts and their flanged nuts [1 right hand thread and 1 left hand thread] they are from EN24T . But I seem to have boobed with the weight I reckoned about 40 kg's when finished but it is now at a shade under 51kg's and still has the base to go so will probably be nearer 60kg's but it is very very rigid and stable so that is 1 plus from the boob. As it is just now when horizontal on the granite surface plate there is 0.004mm from end to end so I am happy with the accuracy it's just the weight is a pest [being a bricklayer I am used to lifting Granite a lot heavier than the table] but putting the thing on the milling machine in a controlled manner is not easy. I have put a photo in my album for anyone interested.

Regards,

Raymond.

Edited By Raymond Anderson on 25/10/2012 18:26:33
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25 October 2012 at 18:23 #16916
Raymond Anderson
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@raymondanderson34407
25 October 2012 at 18:27 #101899
Ady1
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@ady1
25 October 2012 at 18:35 #101900
Raymond Anderson
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@raymondanderson34407
Thanks Ady I was not to sure about how to stick a photo into a post ,Cheers.

Raymond.
25 October 2012 at 18:53 #101901
KWIL
Participant
@kwil
It obviously stays attached to a mill by its own weight?
25 October 2012 at 19:05 #101902
Raymond Anderson
Participant
@raymondanderson34407
KWIL,

Unfortunately it won,t stay with it's own weight, the base still has to be completed.

as has the Tslots, or a threaded tooling plate [ argh, even more weight]

Raymond.
25 October 2012 at 20:52 #101909
James B
Participant
@jamesb
Hi Raymond,

I like the flycutter – homemade? Is that a Glanze tipped tool you have in there? How do you find it works with the tipped insert?

Table looks good too!

Thanks

James
25 October 2012 at 22:00 #101911
KWIL
Participant
@kwil
Raymond

How nice to see another user of a Newall C80, I have several.

K
26 October 2012 at 05:41 #101920
Thor 🇳🇴
Participant
@thor
Hi Raymond,

The table looks nice, I like the clamps you made,

Regards

Thor
26 October 2012 at 07:11 #101921
Raymond Anderson
Participant
@raymondanderson34407
Hello All,

James the cutter that you mention is not really a flycutter ,I made several in Ø's up to 150mm

they take indexable tools, the largest takes 5 tools and the smallest takes 2 they are from EN16T In the larger ones I often remove a few tools and leave only 2 depends on what I am milling Yes I think 1 has a couple of Glanze tools the others are either Sandvik Coromant or Walter NOVEX they work great with the correct insert I will stick a few photo's of the others in my album.

KWIL, Yes the Newall C80 is a great piece of gear .I also have a Newall topaz 2 axis on the Warco GH750 lathe and a Heidenhain on the DSG.

Thor, The plate clamps you mention are machined from EN16T the front faces are from EN24T. the guides bars [to prevent any rotation of the front face] are from silver steel they are designed to apply a downward force as well as a linear force and they can apply a lot of pressure if needed. There is not really much to them but they must be made very accurate to work correctly I will take 1 apart and stick it in my album.

Regards,

Raymond.
27 October 2012 at 02:28 #101987
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Raymond, is the table hollowed out underneath? That would lose a bit of weight, you could also put resesses in each leg, and at the bottom of the legs have a slot for a mounting stud, just an idea to lose a bit of surplus. Ian S C
27 October 2012 at 18:04 #102031
Raymond Anderson
Participant
@raymondanderson34407
Ian, No, the table is not hollowed out . I see where you are coming from, re saving some weight. But it will be managable at approx 60kgs, and I like everything solid and rigid and it's certainly both. The construction side of the table should be finished tomorrow [ the base], and then only the T slots [or tapped tooling plate] will remain to be done, then it's done and dusted.

Regards,

Raymond.
28 October 2012 at 11:47 #102092
Ian S C
Participant
@iansc
Raymond, I was just thinking what I would do, I look at it this way, I can lift it now, but will I be able to do it in years to come, Thats why I built a hoist to move the chucks on the lathe,m they are 8", so a reasonable weight, but this year I'v had trouble with my legs, and the hoist has come into its own. The only time I have to man handle a chuck, is when I want to put it on the rotary table on the milling machine. The hoist uses the motor from a garage door opener, I think its a 36V motor, but it's ok on my 17V workshop low voltage supply. Ian S C
29 October 2012 at 13:49 #102152
MICHAEL WILLIAMS
Participant
@michaelwilliams41215
Hi Raymond ,

Just a couple of thoughts :

(1) Cutting T slots in top of table will very likely cause some distortion – it could be anything from minimal to severe – there is no way of telling .

(2) Give some consideration as to whether T slots will be along axis of table or across – both alignments have merits and demerits – depends on what you want to use it for really .

(3) Tilting tables of this general layout have the problem that they are top heavy and when locking mechanism is released they fall over . You may wish to consider reducing this problem by using any of :

Friction washers , a control mechanism (like a jack strut or worm and wheel ), or just a fail safe in form of a selection of wooden blocks to put loose under table .

Regards ,

Michael Williams .
29 October 2012 at 17:34 #102170
Raymond Anderson
Participant
@raymondanderson34407
Michael, good call about the t-slots, I have the table scraped flat and true so I would not want the slightest distortion . I have decided to install a threaded tooling plate, they are also made to very fine limits of flatness. Yes I will certainly need a fail safe as it would certainly do the fingers a bit of damage. [in fact if I were to loosen it from the horizontal and it decided to tilt on to the fingers then I would most probably be looking at broken fingers at the very least ] again.

Regards,

Raymond.

Ps, The worm wheel sounds a nice idea, I will try to design one to suit the almost finished table. or else it's the easy way out [blocks of wood].
29 October 2012 at 23:11 #102207
MICHAEL WILLIAMS
Participant
@michaelwilliams41215
Worm and sector of a worm wheel actually – you don't need a full circle worm wheel . Much easier to fit in just over half a wheel into your design than a complete one and resulting design could be both rugged and compact .
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