Most of the time I use ordinary super-glue because it’s cheaper and available. Not for everything though! Superglue is for low temperature permanent joints. Therefore, not good for fixing hot objects. Though superglue works as a thread-locker, it’s risky:
- not a good choice if the fastener has to be undone later – it’s too strong. Or
- too weak! Ordinary superglue is weakened badly by oil, including cutting fluids, which are likely to be found on a thread.
For thread-locking I use Loctite Blue (243). It’s deliberately only strong enough to stop loosening due to vibration, whilst being weak enough to break when undone with a hand-tool. 243 also tolerates oil, so it’s does what it says on the tin.
I often super-glue flat objects on to a mandrel, much as watchmakers use Shellac. Shellac may be better because it can be broken by mild heat, but I don’t have any. To get superglue apart I boil or oven bake the assembly, or long soak it in Acetone. This is a bodge compared with choosing the best product available, like using a low temperature Loctite,
The various Loctites available are optimised to meet one of many different needs, such as:
- high or low temperatures.
- oil resistance
- strength of joint (use weak Loctite on threads, strong on joints)
- gap filling (ordinary looseness is not the same as a gasket)
- wicking into tight spaces
- gluing different materials, metals and non-metals
- fast or slow acting (tacking or not)
- and more…
I don’t worry about “which Loctite” because most of my needs are met by ordinary superglue and blue thread-locker. Although my needs are basic, I’m aware a wide range of adhesives are available and what they do is explained on the Henkel website. (Other brands available.)
One thing I learned early about glue was to follow the instructions. Many glues demand absolute cleanliness and degrade rapidly once the package is opened. If the joint matters, don’t fudge it! Clean enthusiastically, and apply new glue, or older glue properly stored.
Dave