Warco wm 250

Warco wm 250

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  • #457144
    Arran Waters
    Participant
      @arranwaters20599

      Hi, I have bought a Warco wm250 today , its a 2012 model and has not been run for a couple of years. I have started the clean up on it and have drained the oil( and scrapped the gel from the bottom of the gearbox) and have order some new oil from warco. My question how do you change/ check the oil on the apron and is there anything else I should look for ?

      #19662
      Arran Waters
      Participant
        @arranwaters20599

        2012 model

        #457155
        Journeyman
        Participant
          @journeyman

          See WM250 Maintenance on my website. I'm afraid that it doesn't help much with the apron oil change as my WM250 hasn't got power cross-feed. I have heard some say that the apron doesn't need an oil change, just regular topping up, as it usually leaks like a sieve!

          John

          Edited By Journeyman on 14/03/2020 15:08:21

          #457173
          mechman48
          Participant
            @mechman48

            I have the same year model WM 250V-F which has the power feed, bought at Harrogate exhibition' in 2012. I stripped the apron down back in 2018 to see if I could solve the oil leakage problem which gave me the chance to see what the inside of the apron looked like& clean it out.N.B.if you go down this route be careful you don't lose the small leadscrew drive key, anyway I cleaned the oil window as best as I could & replaced the oil with some SAE 32 oil ( hydraulic ) which I had a surplus of instead of dashing out to buy transmission oil.

            The drain plug is underneath the apron, M16 hex socket plug, same for filler plug on the left side of the apron, I wrapped the drain plug with PTFE tape as the thread was a Chinese fit… somewhat slack, so far it helps, it still leaks but easily topped up every couple of months.

            My conclusion is that these machines have some casting porosity with the apron, maybe on this particular years model ?. My intention is to change the filler & drain plugs to hex head M16 bolts modified to take a couple of Dowty washers, it won't stop leakage due to casting porosity but will seal the drain plug better, in the meantime I can cope with cleaning up some oil drips.

            George.

            #457191
            Howard Lewis
            Participant
              @howardlewis46836

              Tip before removing the Apron.

              Turn the drive shaft until the keyway is at the bottom. That way the key should remain in the worm..

              If need be, Retrieve the key and put in a safe place (Remember the safe place! )

              When reassembling

              Ensure that the worm is positioned with the keyway at the bottom. That way, the key should not fall out!

              Insert key into worm

              Ensure that the drive shaft has the keyway is at the bottom..

              Refit Apron over shaft, ensuring that the key is not moved out of place.

              Congratulate yourself on job well done!

              Howard

              #457194
              Arran Waters
              Participant
                @arranwaters20599

                Thanks for the advice , mine is the standard 250 so no apron gearbox as I found out today .

                John I like the drain plug mod, will get it done while the front is off

                regards

                Arran

                #457197
                Arran Waters
                Participant
                  @arranwaters20599

                  f936614b-5a91-4eed-8cdc-afd37eb0b67d.jpgbafc76d4-4ac9-4968-973a-b5f5dc67aef1.jpg

                  #457198
                  Arran Waters
                  Participant
                    @arranwaters20599

                    88a19210-d8e5-4075-86fa-686b13d4c9c6.jpgf9a0497e-72a6-46c0-92a3-ddcccdda62ac.jpg

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