riveted tube

[Rich2502Participant @rich2502]

[Rich2502Participant @rich2502]

i want to solid rivet a chimney, 6 inch diameter rolled stainless sheet, by about 24 inch long, close rivet along the londitunal seam, i'm gueseing i would need a jig , a beam going through with drilled dimples along it's top edje to locate the rivet heads ?

anyone got any better ideas ?

[Boiler BriParticipant @boilerbri]

I use a peice of 3" diameter bar with a dolly in the end. You need a big vice to hold it though.

Bri

[Chris HeapyParticipant @chrisheapy71135]

Using some 6" tube and putting groove + some decorative rivets in would be easier

Other than that, a couple of vices 24" apart with a length of barstock between them would give you a solid dolly to hammer on.

Chris

[SpringbokParticipant @springbok]

Only a thought but have used in the past dome head no slot bolts OK a bit of cheating but looks great. lots of people say to me how did you manage to rivets in there.! Toung in cheek I say "My little workshop Gnomes" gets a interesting reaction then explain.
Will dig out supplier name if you are interested.
Please PM me
Bob

 

Edited By Springbok on 27/06/2013 04:30:29

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As Boiler Bri says a bit of stout bar with a homemede dolly in the end is all you need. If they are very thick rivits you may need to put the dolly in the middle of a longer bar so the far end can be supported.

If the chimney is going to get sooted up you can do it the other way with the factory head on the outside and just rough form the head on the inside with a lump of bar to pein it flat.

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

I sometimes made stove flue pipes by rivetting. Drilled the holes thru' both sides with a timber mandrel and jubilee clips to hold together. Slip of the mandrel ,put all the rivets in the holes, use a heavy pipe inside. the ends of this dolly supported. Easiest way is on two piles of concrete blocks, with a helper steadying everthing. Set the heads with a normal snap.

[Ian S CParticipant @iansc]

The rivits only need the raised round head on the outside, the head on the inside can be flat, look at an aircraft, its got thousands of rivits, both raised, and countersunk, the othe side is bucked up with a flat bar, seems to work. Although I was an engine mechanic, I still had to do some airframe work, like rebuilding wings fusilage etc. mind you we did use a pnumatic hammer/ rivit gun. Ian S C

[Rich2502Participant @rich2502]

thanks fellas, you have confirmed my idea, i'll post a picture of my jig, if and when.

[Mick DParticipant @mickd41895]

Yes – react the rivets as per in aircraft construction. Any reasonably massive block will sufice to form the backs. No need for a jig, just a mate to hold the reaction block if you don't have a pneumatic rivet gun. Regards Mick

[Sub MandrelParticipant @submandrel]

> look at an aircraft, its got thousands of rivits, both raised, and countersunk

How Split Peas Saved the Civilised World.

In WW2 a spitfire was made with all its rivets countersunk. It was significantly faster, but slower to build. Split peas were glued onto the rivets in different parts of the airframe and flight tests undertaken. Much in line with the 80-/20 rule they found which rivets made the biggest difference and got most of the extra speed with the minimum increase in manufacturing time.

Neil

[Gordon WParticipant @gordonw]

Many years ago ,when I was in the aircraft industry, C/sk rivets were used everywhere except round the doors, passengers felt safer with the big rivet heads. Or so it was thought. Suppose this should be in the other thread.

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