Painting a 3.5″ model

Painting a 3.5″ model

Home Forums Beginners questions Painting a 3.5″ model

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  • #820945
    ian Holdsworth
    Participant
      @ianholdsworth27760

      How should the painting be done, brush or spray. Whose paint is the best. How do I get a finishing that is good and does not look like painted tar put on with a stick?

      All advice is welcome for this beginner!!!

      #820966
      Brian Baker 2
      Participant
        @brianbaker2

        Greetings Ian, if you lashed out and bought a copy of Chris Vine’s book “How (not) to paint a model steam locomotive” you would find more information than you need, but it will tell you everything you need to know.   Well worth purchase and a read.

        Regards

        Brian B

        #820975
        noel shelley
        Participant
          @noelshelley55608

          I’ll second Brians comment. Buy the best paint for the job, take your time, and remember an adage from a friend at Westlands    Piss poor preparation prevents proper product performance !

          If it’s a working model try to run it and be sure that all works correctly BEFORE painting. Trying to undo paint filled screw slots not only often ruins the screw but wrecks the paintwork ! Good Luck. Noel.

          #821009
          ian Holdsworth
          Participant
            @ianholdsworth27760

            Thanks a mil. The book is ordered.

             

            #821031
            Clive Brown 1
            Participant
              @clivebrown1

              Vine’s book is certainly an interesting and worthwhile read. His results are near perfection but some may be rather daunted by his no-compromise approach.

              I could never see myself achieving good results with a brush, except on quite small components and maybe spoked wheels. For platework etc. I have a cheap Badger airbrush (~£20,) which gives quite acceptable results by my standards. I’ve used Precision Paints and Humbrol gloss enamal, although this latter seems less widely stocked these days.

              Rattle cans can give reasonable results with practice.

              A good-sized workspace and a decent airbrush compressor are nice things to have.

              #821040
              Bazyle
              Participant
                @bazyle

                The key thing about brush painting that in days of yore would have been learned in years of apprenticeship is the viscosity of the paint. It has to be ‘just so’ so that it does not drip and run but when applied it is just able to flow enough for the ridges and furrows from individual brush hairs to smooth out before it thickens. It helps to have expensive fine brushes and expensive finely ground pigment.
                This viscosity thing is still important (and different) with spray but at least the brush hair problem is removed.

                I noticed as I typed that a mistype turns ‘spray’ into ‘pray’ – perhaps that is also good advice 🙂

                #821047
                Richard Simpson
                Participant
                  @richardsimpson88330

                  Many years ago I watched a TV program about the behind the scenes at Rolls Royce.  One of the interviews was with a coach painter, who said that the best possible paint finish could only be achieved with a brush.  He then went on to explain the process of many layers, painted on in different directions and then how it was all rubbed down in between coats.  All very interesting and way beyond the vast majority of us but I always remember him saying that the best finish could only be achieved with a brush.

                  One of the best paints I have ever applied, with a brush although I’m sure it could be sprayed as well, is Craftmaster Coach Enamel.  It glides on beautifully, settles perfectly and is an absolute joy to apply.

                  This is Crimson Lake:

                   

                  01-08-21-01Wide-A-WakeBuild17

                   

                  01-08-21-02Wide-A-WakeBuild18

                  #821050
                  Colin Bishop
                  Moderator
                    @colinbishop34627

                    All very interesting and way beyond the vast majority of us but I always remember him saying that the best finish could only be achieved with a brush.

                    Richard,

                    Still, as you say, that was many years ago. I rather suspect that spray painting techniques have moved on since then. That doesn’t mean you cannot get a good finish with a brush on a model though.

                    Painting metal  on a loco is likely to be more challenging then painting model boats where the underlying material is likely to be wood or GRP and the edges are less clearly defined. Plasticard does require more precision however as it is closer to a metal finish.

                    Colin

                     

                     

                    #821059
                    noel shelley
                    Participant
                      @noelshelley55608

                      In 1969 I put an ex MOD champ on the road, a NEW registration in the September, most people thought it was a new vehicle, why? It was brush painted with Valspar ! It still looked good 25 years later ! Noel.

                       

                      #821078
                      Nigel Graham 2
                      Participant
                        @nigelgraham2

                        Picking up on Bazyle’s advice, even if we have to make do with less exotic paints I would suggest very thorough stirring so all the pigment is back in emulsion and the whole mixture is homogenous.

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