Myford ML10 ‘Refurbishment’ Query

[C. WilliamsParticipant @c-williams89852]

[C. WilliamsParticipant @c-williams89852]

Hello All. I am hoping someone here will be able to point me in the best direction to resolve the first issue I have with 'refurbishing' a Myford ML10:- the headstock spindle is apparently seized and I can not turn it by hand.

Perhaps I should explain that I purchased this ML10 some twenty years ago, and it has been in a dismantled state (but in dry storage) ever since. So, ideally, I should simply be able to just put it all back together, once I have completed the new bench for it, but I thought I should check the components first.

There is no evidence of rusting on the spindle and indeed there was still oil in the rear oiler when I looked yesterday. The backgear is not engaged (and rotates fine).

Is it simply a question of soaking with a penetrating oil until the spindle turns ?

Any guidance would be appreciated!

[BazyleParticipant @bazyle]

Congealed grease perhaps? Try warming it up.

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Or soaking in paraffin.

Neil

[Michael GilliganParticipant @michaelgilligan61133]

Posted by Neil Wyatt on 15/03/2015 19:28:03:

Or soaking in paraffin.

.

… My favourite 'easing oil' is PlusGas Formula A … which is basically Kerosene.

A few drops of that might do the trick.

MichaelG.

[C. WilliamsParticipant @c-williams89852]

Thank you for those prompt replies! I will see which I can try out next week.

[David ColwillParticipant @davidcolwill19261]

Is the back gear correctly disengaged?

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

Have you loosened the adjusting screws that control the fit of the spindle in the head? Someone may have over tightened them and locked the spindle without the right shims in place.

[Jim GuthrieParticipant @jimguthrie82658]

Like Chris says, I would try loosening off the clamp screws on the spindle bearings to see if that improves matters. Otherwise, I think I would try slackening off the thrust bearing at the end of the spindle – its a threaded ring which is locked on the rear spindle thread by a hex socket grub screw – and give the spindle end a few gentle taps with a rubber mallet to see if you can move it horizontally. If you can, then I would take the spindle out completely by removing the drive gear off the end along with the thrust locking ring, and push the spindle through the headstock and pulley. You can then inspect the spindle and headstock bearings to make sure that there has been no damage to them. It might be worth checking the pulley bearing as well.

 

[Edit]  Forgot to add that you also have to release the bull wheel/pulley assembly from the spindle.  On my machine there is a socket grub screw in front of the bull wheel,  just behind the front bearing.

 

Jim.

Edited By Jim Guthrie on 16/03/2015 09:55:28

[C. WilliamsParticipant @c-williams89852]

Hello All. Thanks for the responses to what I had thought was a daft question!

An update on my limited progress: I was going to get some PlusGas, but it is not available locally (sure Halfords used to stock it!), but luckily copious amounts of WD40 seemed to loosen the spinlde sufficiently. I then proceeded to dismantle further and extract the spindle, which was very reluctant to come out. There seems to be no damage to either spindle or headstock bearing surfaces, but I am really surprised at how tight a fit it is when temporarily re-inserted – I have to mount the faceplate and turn the spindle whilst pushing it back in.

Now, from the condition of the headstock and the fact that the factory paint still covered the bearing clamping bolts, I am quite sure that the spindle had never been removed since its factory assembly, and would doubt the lathe had ever seen much use before I acquired it all those years ago!

So I have a new question: just how tight a fit in the bearings should the spindle be? Should I be able to spin it by turning the faceplate round? Or am I just witnessing 'factory newness' ?

(I should perhap add that this one of the earlier ML10s with plain bearings.)

[Engine BuilderParticipant @enginebuilder]

I have an ML10 with plain bearings. You should be able to rotate the spindle easily when a chucK or faceplate is fitted. If not you would not be able to rotate the chuck to fit the key for example. I have replaced the belt on mine twice in it's life and don't remember any problems fitting the spindle back.

Just re read your post. You should be able to turn the chuck but not spin it like you would a flywheel!

Edited By Engine Builder on 21/03/2015 20:11:19

[Jim GuthrieParticipant @jimguthrie82658]

Have you slackened off the front spindle bearing screw to see if the bearing will spring out a bit to free up the spindle? I think I would be reluctant to try running the lathe with a very stiff spindle since the heat generated could cause even more problems. My spindle rotates easily by hand and I might consider looking at removing a leaf of the shims to tighten it up. But that would be the first adjustment ever in over forty years – Myford's statement that a steel spindle in cast iron would be long lasting seems to have been proven.

Jim.

[C. WilliamsParticipant @c-williams89852]

Thanks Engine Builder and Jim. Your posts rather confirm my suspicions. It is the rear bearing which seems to be the issue, as I found when I took the spindle out, turned it around and part-mounted it (but supporting its weight) in just the rear bearing. I have loosened the rear bearing clamping bolt, but the bearing did not spring up. It may still be stuck down by the factory paint.

I think I will leave doing anything more (other than a good clean), until I am in a position to atleast partly re-assemble the lathe.

Thanks again.

[Chris TriceParticipant @christrice43267]

Try loosening the screw and VERY gently push the tip of a screwdriver in to the slot. A quarter of a thou is more than enough so don't force anything and be careful not to damage any shim.

Edited By Chris Trice on 22/03/2015 23:11:06

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