Milling for beginners book, Where?

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

Hello,

 

does anyone know of a source for this book?

Just got my mill and would quite fancy a book on the subject. Seen many YouTube videos which are great but….

just can’t find one ?!

[Mark EasingwoodParticipant @markeasingwood33578]

Do you mean, “Milling for Beginners”, by Jason Balamy of this Parish?

It was being sold by Arc Euro Trade, not sure if it still is ‘tho.

Might be on Amazon or similar???

 

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

I think Ketan at ARC was trying to move all his stock of various books to another supplier. I’ll see if I can find out if any of mine have gone with the others.

Failing that Little Machine Shop in the US have it and they have also taken on the rights for both mine and Neil’s books.

A digital subscription will get you almost the same content as the book is mostly what was in MEW.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

There’s always the Workshop practice series, there is No 2 and No 35 – the latter might be best. Noel.

[Andrew TinsleyParticipant @andrewtinsley63637]

Don’t forget the Crowood press book on milling.

Andrew.

[cogdobblerParticipant @cogdobbler]

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/product/milling-a-complete-course-35/

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

Yeah that’s the one, arc and Amazon are sold out in the U.K.

i havnt seen that other book I’ll have a look.

 

something nice about it being about the mill I own ect.

 

thanks Jason I’d appreciate that, and thanks for writing it !

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

Ordered that book 35, will what it’s like 🙂 £6.95 on Amazon and prime delivered can’t go wrong! (I pay for prime so try to use it where I can)

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

As Andrew has just got a SIEG SX2.7 I expect he wants the book which featured it.

Andrew it would also be worth having a look in the “workshop” section of this site at the “getting the most from your Brushless” which has some up to date suggestions for using these machines  rather than the somewhat dated parts of some of the older books which tend to be based on belt/gear speeds and using HSS tools.

 

Just spoken with Ketan and LMS in teh US would be your best option or Aussie down under have some in stock too.

[cogdobbler]

On cogdobbler Said:

https://www.rdgtools.co.uk/product/milling-a-complete-course-35/

Also on Amazon.  I can recommend it.  I followed it when I bought my first milling machine (over twenty years ago!) and found it to be easy to follow and I ended up with some useful accessories along the way.

Russell

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

Thanks Jason.
ill have a look at that, like you say, it’s very relevant to me.

 

i do actually have a friend in the states at the moment so could get them to bring it back…..

[IanTParticipant @iant]

To add to the other books listed above, there is also “Milling for the Model Engineer” by Stan Bray.

It’s a little dated now (first published in 1990 – so no insert tooling or DRO mention) but the basic info is there. I just found it for just over £6 at ‘Better World Books’ (with free shipping).

Regards,

 

IanT

 

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

Cheers Ian that’s one for the list!

 

just got my mill on the bench, going to get to bolted to some ally plate if I can get my hands on some on top the 18mm OSB and 2×4 framed bench it’s on now.

mounted up the power feed and just been cleaning and lubing it all up, tweaking gibs ect

all enjoyable stuff !

[Mark EasingwoodParticipant @markeasingwood33578]

I have at least 4 books on milling from the “Workshop Practice” series and the book by Jason, I haven’t got the Crowood book. I have a Sieg SX3 milling machine.

The book by Jason, and his YouTube videos should be first on your list if you have a modern Sieg/Warco/Amadeal mill.

Why?, well it’s the only book that references the higher speeds of the newer mills, along with solid carbide cutters and insert style face milling cutters. The difference between Slot Drills and End Mills has also become somewhat blurred since those books were written. ER collets, Aluminium specific cutters, coated cutters and use of Hole Saws etc. are also not going to be in the older books, they are still worth reading ‘tho.

The older books are generally based around slower speed mills, nothing wrong in that, it’s just a different approach is required, higher cutter speeds & lighter cuts with smaller diameter carbide for instance. Nothing wrong with HSS either.

The Harold Hall book, no.35 in the “Workshop Practice” series is good if you want some tooling projects, but sadly, the B&W photography is not perhaps as good as it could be. The Harold Hall website is still available, and has a LOT of info and Projects. You can find it HERE only as a http site, not https ‘tho, so may need to overide your browser setting.

The speeds and feeds calculator on, “The Little Machine Shop” site is also worth a look, HERE

Enjoy.

Mark.

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

Thanks Mark that’s pretty much hit the nail on the head…. !

[andy198712]

On andy198712 Said:

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going to get to bolted to some ally plate if I can get my hands on some on top the 18mm OSB and 2×4 framed bench it’s on now

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If you’ve got everything bolted down and sorted, feel free to ignore the below and just make some chips.

 

If you haven’t, I’d recommend a sturdier top to the bench.  I have a Warco ‘Minor’ (from ’94 so it’s closer to what Warco called their old heavier ‘Major’ mill-drill RF-30 clone than the old lighter ‘Minor’ RF-20 clone).

I have two sheets of inch hardwood plywood glued and brad’d together, on top of my 40 mm box section steel workbench and a 400 x 400 x 6 mm steel plate on top of the ply and underneath the mill.

You really do want the thing your mill is going to be on, to be as rigid as possible.  18 mm OSB is possibly less than ideal

You also want the thing the mill.is on to be as stable as possible over time, too.

The wooden framed workbench is likely to change its shape over time (wood being what it is), and you want to try to isolate your mill from the workbench and its uneven expansion and contraction as much as you can.  Steel will be much better than aluminium for this.

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

It is pretty well bolted down sadly!
to be honest the wood was a much cheaper alternative to rectangle box section steel, (I made a table frame from effectively 4×2 steel box section and it’s now very pricey to buy 🙁

 

I know what you mean though. I do have the mill on a 4mm sheet/plate of ally too to level out anything from the OSB

[JasonBModerator @jasonb]

My SX2.7 only sits on a bit of 30mm kitchen worktop that is on some fairly flimsy draw units. The KX-3 on CLS wooden legs and a couple of layers of MDF. X3 on an old fire door bench with draws & cupboards below – no framework. None are bolted down but you have all seen what can be produced on a setup like that.

[andy198712Participant @andy198712]

I’ve got a years yet before I’m up to your standard!! Cheers Jason

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