Lubricants for lathes

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

Is chain saw oil/lube a suitable substitute for way oil ?

My lathe, when it arrives, will be covered in protective grease. Most Youtube videos recommend cleaning all this grease off before using. But I live in the tropics and I have seen how fast tools can rust here so I am more inclined to leave as much of the grease on as possible and just remove it from the parts that I will be handling the most. Any opinions on this ?

[John HaineParticipant @johnhaine32865]

When you see it you will probably change your mind as the grease will be more like wax.  Best to clean it off and wipe some oil on all the exposed surfaces and keep them oiled.

[cedric 1Participant @cedric]

Swarf will stick to grease and make a splendid grinding  paste. Hydraulic oil is the usual recommended oil or hobby lathes. Available in 1 litre containers as compressor oil at tool suppliers.

For anti rust in wet tropics, a spritz of WD40 works well I  between use.

[Thor 🇳🇴Participant @thor]

Hi Brian,

You can use mineral based chain saw oil for lubrication, may be mixed with some ISO 68 oil. Even motor oil is better than no lubrication at all. A proper way oil will be better if you can buy it in such small quantities that amateurs need.

Thor

[Andrew CrowParticipant @andrewcrow91475]

To answer your original question, chain saw oil is probably a bit heavy when the lathe is in use, but should be OK for protection when not being used as it is very sticky. Although correct sideway oil is also quite sticky but probably better when the lathe is being used.

Andy

[Roderick JenkinsParticipant @roderickjenkins93242]

Myford recommended a straight SAE 30 engine oil for general lubrication,including the ways, and H32 hydraulic oil for the spindle.  They have both served me well for the last 40 years.

Rod

[Dave SParticipant @daves59043]

Chainsaw oil is the cheapest rubbish possible – it’s designed for a total loss lube system in a crap environment.

Hydraulic oil is often specified for ways – my mill, lathe and grinder all specify it

Dave

[Les RileyParticipant @lesriley75593]

I use slideway 68 in all my machines. A bit like chainsaw oil, it is slightly sticky and has better retention on things.

I also use it on my 4″ traction engine for the same reason. Everything except the cylinders, they get steam oil!

I buy 25 litres at a time and it makes it reasonably cheap. Lasts me about 5 years.

[duncan webster 1Participant @duncanwebster1]

Don’t use slideway oil in the headstock of a geared lathe. The wax seems to settle out and block the sight glass windows.  It’s great for slideways tho’ , possibly because that’s what it’s made for.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

ISO 32 for the spindle and ISO 68 for the bedways.   Noel.

[JAParticipant @ja]

I have used the above for years. The oils are cheaper, and nicer, than automotive oils but more difficult to find. Model engineering suppliers sell small amounts at inflated prices. Local lubricant dealers may sell to you but generally won’t like you since you are not a regular. The best is to try the main wholesalers such as Morris Lubricants who will happily dispatch to you. There may be small order additional charges or not being offered free delivery for small amounts. However with some thought, such as sharing an order, ordering other stuff in addition or just having 10 years worth of oil these are avoided. These firms will also give you good advice.

I believe ISO32 to be the usual go-to industrial light lubricating oil. Nothing special.

JA

[Clive FosterParticipant @clivefoster55965]

Ages ago I asked Castrol technical what to use on the SouthBend I’d just bought. They recommended Hyspin AW32 for the spindle, an ISO32 hydraulic oil with the anti-wear additive package, and Magna BD68 for the bed , apron and gears, an ISO68 low stiction slideway oil also suitable for moderate speed gear and bearing duties.

Worked well enough for me over maybe 50 years. The Magna BD 68 is a great oil can oil for “honey doo” jobs like door hinges et multiple al as its not too sticky to flow but hangs around for ages.

Most oil companies have equivalents. For the ISO32 oil make sure it has the anti-wear additive pack. Anti foam is of no help to us. Old stye, full on sideway oils tend to be too sticky on smaller machines.

Clive

 

[JAParticipant @ja]

Brian

I have just re-read your question. A word that stands out is “Tropics”.

You don’t tell us where you are, but unless you live on a remote Pacific island I think all of the above apply. Good lubricant suppliers may be further away but they will exist. Also, I guess most UK wholesalers are prepared to ship overseas.

JA

[Trevor Drabble 1Participant @trevordrabble1]

In addition to using the oils previously recommended , I would suggest supplementing them with a small container of Shield Technology Toolguard VCi from Rustin’s Ltd under the lathe cover . Rustin’s actually make a number of interesting products in this field . No connection with company other than a very satisfied user.

[SillyOldDufferModerator @sillyoldduffer]

The key words for me in Brian’s post are “I live in the tropics“.

Suggests a major rust risk plus difficulty sourcing slide-way and other mildly out-of-the-ordinary oils.  If so, and chainsaw oil is readily available, it could well be the best answer.

I don’t fuss about exactly which oil goes on my lathe, taking the view that generous and regular is “good enough” to keep it slippery and water repellent.  Can’t remember off-hand what’s in the headstock and saddle, it’s as per manual, basically ISO32.   The rest of it generally gets wiped down with old-fashioned 80-20 motor-oil (fewer additives), and ISO32 squirted into the oiling points.  Huge but : I don’t live in the tropics!

If I were Brian, I’d keep a close eye on what happens to the lathe, and react accordingly.  I guess it will be necessary to apply oil generously on the ways and all other metalwork that attracts condensation.  The advantage of chainsaw oil is it’s sticky, and less like to squeegee out leaving dry spots when the slides are used.

Also, stop air circulating around the lathe with a cover such as a thick blanket. Dehumidifier if practical.

Dave

 

 

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

I can guarantee the preservative concoctions used on pretty much all Asian hobby level machines tools if that’s what your new lathe will be is going to be full of contamination. Dirt, small bits of swarf, grinding dust etc. These machines certainly aren’t assembled in anything resembling clean room conditions, or even the individual parts cleaned very well before final assembly. We as the end customer aren’t usually willing to pay the extra that would involve. So your going to absolutely need to remove all you can.

Something like even WD 40 can work although it’s a bit slow, far better in my opinion is a proper mineral oil such as Varsol. And even washing the smaller parts in a container partially full of solvent. The color of that solvent and what’s left in the bottom of the container when your done should be enough to clearly demonstrate why it needs to be done. Don’t forget any change gears, feed screws and nuts. Most, to maybe all Asian lathe chucks will also need the same thing. But that takes a complete disassembly. Properly cleaned and re lubricated, you’ll then find the machine can be adjusted to far tighter moving clearances on items like the gibs while being even smother to operate.

Ignoring the requirements for items like head stock gear boxes and high rpm spindle bearings operating in an oil bath where a very close lubrication match is extremely important. The old saying of any oil is better than no oil is at least partially true I suppose. I tried most of the easier to find oils on my first couple of lathes. Everything from light sewing machine / 3 N 1 oil, 20W-30W non detergent automotive engine oils, chain saw bar oil, and even up to 90W gear oil. Until I bought my Bridgeport clone and made the effort to obtain the proper and designated way oil. I really didn’t know what I was missing. There is a large difference in how well a slide way oil sticks to the surfaces, it’s lubricity, and just how well and smoothly a slide then operates. And in a tropical type environment, I think I’d be even more inclined to go to the extra effort to find and use it. In that environment, your maintenance and lubrication requirements are going to be fairly extensive just to keep any bare metal surfaces from rusting.

 

 

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

1. Tropics = Cairns, Australia. Slideway oil is available on Ebay : 1 litre = $55 . That does seem expensive but it would seem I don’t have much choice so I guess I should by that. It seems to be the smallest quantity available. Everybody else wanted to sell me 20 litres !

2. As per the above replies, I will clean all the grease off. I intend to use WD40 (odourless) for that unless somebody has better any suggestions ?

3. A cover for the lathe : I was just thinking about that last night as a few Youtube videos mentioned it. Plastic, cotton or canvas ?

[cedric 1Participant @cedric]

Don’t put a plastic cover over it in the tropics. Condensation will cause massive rust. Cotton bed sheet will do the job.

[peak4Participant @peak4]

It’s not a lathe lubricant, but Motorex 645 is a pretty good corrosion inhibitor for motorcycles, so works well for tools as well. Have a word with your local motorcycle dealer for some or a recommended alternative.
It changes name occasionally; I believe this is the latest incarnation.

MOTO PROTECT

If your lathe specifies a 30/32 weight oil for bearings etc, then a normal hydraulic oil will likely suffice.
Also some hydraulic oils are ISO 68 so that may be appropriate and also more readily available than a specific machine slideway oil.

Bill

[PeteParticipant @pete41194]

$55 per liter is really expensive for sure. But it does go a long way. Due to living in a more remote location, I could only buy a 20 liter pail of it myself, but back when it was much cheaper. Around $110 Canadian at the time. That of course does nothing for you now. So at your price, I’d only use it where necessary.

I’d never use plastic as a cover since it’s impermeable, anything trapped under it will stay there or even condense the humidity into water during temperature changes. Any natural fabric in my opinion is the much better choice. Even in my dry climate that’s only about 8% humidity inside right now with the heat on due to being winter here. I keep my machine tools covered when there not being used with the cheapest wool blankets I could find. Mostly and with my average conditions, there a dust cover though. A well oiled machine is a dust magnet, and that dust also collects air borne humidity. But even cotton sheets or the canvas might work fine for you.

I don’t know what size of lathe your buying or what might really be available in Oz. Over here and if you can find a long / wide enough CLOTH not plastic BBQ cover, it’s another relatively cheap option if that might work for you.

While it’s not all that durable over the long term, covering the OD’s and faces of your chucks, faceplates etc with a few layers of an automotive paste wax and then buffing that off does prevent rust starting quite well. But it can be easily scratched through. In fact museums use a slightly more specialty paste wax to do the same on just about any metal surface including ferrous and non ferrous. Any trace of rust even starting, I’d just apply another coat of wax. Although it would be useless on slides etc.

I would keep your lathes spindle nose, any threads if used and the same for chuck back plate recesses and it’s threads well oiled. Any rust at all is going to seriously affect your spindle tooling run outs both axially and radially depending on where it’s located.

[Tony Watson 3Participant @tonywatson3]

Some local advice (from sunny Canberra). Firstly, don’t use WD40 as a degreaser it will leave a sticky and hard to remove residue when it dries (fish oil?).  The degreasing effect comes from its white spirit base.  A cheaper and better alternative is white spirit itself, available from the paint section of your local Bunnings.  An even better degreaser is brake cleaner in aerosol form from Supercheap or Repco. This has an alcohol base, cuts through grease like butter and dries quickly.  Although usually available at $12-14 for a large can it does come on special regularly for multiple buys.  Once you get some you will find multiple uses and wonder how you ever lived without it.

With respect to lubricants, for years I have used a good quality chain bar oil on slideways.  In my experience it sticks but does not drag.  For the spindle I use what is billed as Jack Oil, ISO 32 hydraulic oil.  If you need an ISO68 oil it is available as Compressor Oil (without the tackiness additive).  All these are available from Supercheap or Repco in one litre packs.  Just avoid the cheaper brands.

A cotton cover is a good idea.  I use an old flannelette sheet but these may be hard to come by in your neck of the woods.  Nights are a good deal chillier here!  Due to your high humidity you might also consider adding a pack of moisture absorbing agent under the cover.  These are sold in supermarkets for use in cupboards and wardrobes and should be available in your area.

And keep a quick wipe of oil over everything you touch.

[Brian JohnParticipant @brianjohn93961]

A cotton cover it is and I will buy Repco brake cleaner for $7 per 350g can. Thank for that tip.

[DiogenesParticipant @diogenes]

Two quick comments about each of those things;

– be aware that brake cleaner will strip oil from the very pores of the metal and the surfaces you treat will start to oxidise immediately – on a humid day, rust can be visible in minutes – so you must re-oil thoroughly as you go.

– beware of letting organic (absorbent!) covers come into contact with bare-metal surfaces where damp material can/will cause local rust and pitting.

My machines live in a draughty barn in a very humid area and at times, literally run with condensation – I don’t cover them at all – having them visible allows ‘trouble’ to be dealt with as it arises..

 

 

[Dave WoottonParticipant @davewootton]

As a corrosion proofer which seems to be unaffected by normal lubricants can highly recommend ACF50 , I had two machines in a damp annex workshop for some years, we lived near a reservoir which had it’s own micro climate and lubricating oil would turn milky if left. I used ACF50 corrosion proofer. Originally purchased to prevent salt affecting some precious Borrani alloy motorcycle rims ( look lovely but corrode in seconds). Worked on my machines too, my workshop has been in a container for the last seven months and the bright parts are as good as when I put them in there, on opening the door can still smell the ACF50, bit like lavender furniture polish. The coating is not greasy and is very thin, almost undetectable, but works well and as stated before seems unaffected by lubricating oil.

[noel shelleyParticipant @noelshelley55608]

Be warned ! Do not mix up ISO and SAE oil grades, in this context ISO 32 is SAE 10 and ISO68 is SAE 30. Both are available as hydraulic oils with an anti wear package and reasonably cheap. An interesting point made to me years ago was that a STRAIGHT oil was ALL oil where as a multigrade would have various additive packages to alter the spec to suit a special application, be it viscosity or some other criteria, these polymers Etc would not be oil. WD 40 type products are an expensive degreaser, better to use them for their intended purpose. Brake and clutch cleaner IS HIGHLY INFLAMMABLE only ever use this outside, it makes a very good starting fluid for small petrol engines.

Enjoy your new toy and best wishes.  Noel.

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