Dill bit rubbing

Dill bit rubbing

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  • #822537
    Andy Brocklehurst
    Participant
      @andybrocklehurst85292

      I’ve been using my WM180 for a few weeks now and it been absolutely fine. Apart from the many beginner’s errors 🙄

      Today for some reason when I’m drilling some 6mm round brass I noticed when I withdraw the drill bit it rubs on one side of the hole, same with a reamer obviously making the hole out of round. I can’t see the drill bit or reamer flexing going in.

      my set up is 6mm round brass in a collet, centre drilled, drilled 2.2mm then reamed with a carbide.0935” reamer. This has worked perfectly until today. Run at around 1800 rpm

      I’ve tried different drill bits and a different reamer same result.

      where should I start looking for the cause? Would tailstock misalignment cause this?

      Many thanks.

      #822546
      SillyOldDuffer
      Moderator
        @sillyoldduffer

        The tailstock is adjustable so you can turn tapers.  Sounds like it needs centring.  On my 280 there are two opposing allen head adjusters on the lower rear of the base:

        DSC06971

        They’re turned in opposition to swivel the top of the tailstock.

        Dave

        #822549
        Diogenes
        Participant
          @diogenes

          Check for ingress of swarf / debris between all relevant bits, condition of chuck and other obvious stuff etc. before loosening anything, they can be fiddly to get back in line.

          If you have centres for both head- and tail- stock, a quick ‘point-to-point’ check might help to gauge the degree of error / help diagnose the problem.

          #822562
          Nigel Graham 2
          Participant
            @nigelgraham2

            This problem arose sort of overnight.

            Right:

            Leave suspecting the machine to last and desperate! It can’t have drifted out of adjustment over that short time.

             

            First and simplest, as Diogenes says, ensure cleanliness of the fittings. Brass can be ‘orrible, creating tiny needles that can get anywhere to interfere with correct fits.

             

            Next, investigate the facing of the bar.

            Even a very tiny pip left in the middle can be enough to push the centre-or spotting-drill fractionally to one side. This can arise with HSS tools if you sharpen them in mid-batch, even if only a light honing of the edge, so effectively lowering the edge.

            I find it also be from slight inadvertent movement of the adjuster on a quick-change tool-post, or of shims on a conventional, simple tool-clamp. The main, but not obvious, source of vertical misadjustment on a QCTP is from turning the height-screw slightly with the locking-spindle, if the screw is not fully locked.

            I always take a test facing cut, and reset if necessary, to ensure no central pip. That will affect both HSS and carbide tools, of course.

             

            Also examine the centre-drill / spot-drill/ main drill. Has it blunted slightly unevenly?

            The main drill is more likely to do that, but it takes only a tiny bit of unsymmetry to make it wander a touch.

            #822565
            Andrew Crow
            Participant
              @andrewcrow91475

              If you have been drilling and reaming OK up to now it is unlikely that the machine has suddenly lost alignment.

              More likely that the drill requires some attention, try re-sharpening also check the lands of the drill for any damage and take the sharp edge of the cutting edges. When drilling brass it tends too grab and pull the drill into the  work causing binding and miss-alignment if you don’t. Also contrary to most advice use some lubricant or coolant as brass gets very hot when drilling.

              Andy.

              #822603
              noel shelley
              Participant
                @noelshelley55608

                Andrew has mentioned a very important point, when working on brass Stone the edge of the drill back so that it has no rake, ie it is at 90* to the work, this will stop it corkscrewing into the work, often with bad results. Try to avoid at all costs having to open out a hole as it is very likely to be pulled straight into the work. Good luck. Noel.

                #822630
                paul rayner
                Participant
                  @paulrayner36054

                  All of th above plus, have you removed the drill from the tailstock, check for swarf and burrs, on drill chuck Mt as well, check there is no wiggle on the tailstock, so when you move it then move it back, it is in exactly the same place laterally. Check for swarf in the drill chuck jaws. Seems a bit odd to happen all ofa sudden. That’s all I can think of off the top of my head.

                  Paul

                  #822643
                  SillyOldDuffer
                  Moderator
                    @sillyoldduffer

                    By coincidence I managed this blunder this morning:  nipping a drill off centre in the chuck.

                    nippedDrill

                    The photo is staged to highlight the mistake – in real life the error wasn’t so obvious.

                    Don’t trust anything, check.  Some twist drills I bought at a show were bent.

                    Dave

                     

                    #822665
                    Andy Brocklehurst
                    Participant
                      @andybrocklehurst85292

                      Thank you for all you’re help folks, it turned out to be the the small centre drill id been using, not really sure why it looks ok, it’s possibly too dull and I was forcing it more that I should have been.

                      Bought a spot drill and it’s working a charm again. You live and learn!!

                      thanks again.

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