Silly question

Silly question

This topic has 7 replies, 6 voices, and was last updated 4 September 2011 at 16:54 by Dusty.

Viewing 8 posts - 1 through 8 (of 8 total)

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4 September 2011 at 09:07 #74427
StirlingSingle
Participant
@stirlingsingle
I need to fit a 1/16″ Taper Pin between my crosshead and piston rod…..What is the best method? And do you drill 1/16″ or smaller?

Many thanks in advance
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4 September 2011 at 09:07 #5644
StirlingSingle
Participant
@stirlingsingle
4 September 2011 at 09:31 #74428
Eric Cox
Participant
@ericcox50497
I would imagine drill to the smallest diameter of the taper pin then ream with 1/16 taper reamer
4 September 2011 at 11:09 #74430
Clive Hartland
Participant
@clivehartland94829
On my cross head I used a taper pin and also left the pin with a slight protusion at both ends.

I also made a jig with a screwed pin to allow me to remove the taper pin in situ.

An open mouth ‘C’ shape with a hole drilled through and then one end threaded for the screw pin. this allows you to remove the pin which travels through the hole and can be retrieved.

It can also be use to push it back in as well.

Clive
4 September 2011 at 13:41 #74435
michael howarth 1
Participant
@michaelhowarth1
Some time ago I bought a set of tapered drill bits at a car boot sale, not really knowing what they were for. I was subsequently told that they are used after a normal drill bit, the size of the minor diameter of the taper pin has first drilled a parallel hole. I haven’t used them often but they do work well. I know it doesn’t help Stirlingsingle but I thought I would throw it in. I have never seen tapered bits offered for sale in catalogues etc .

Edited By mick H on 04/09/2011 13:42:29

Edited By mick H on 04/09/2011 13:49:54
4 September 2011 at 14:24 #74437
michael howarth 1
Participant
@michaelhowarth1
Having said that I haven’t seen them advertised, they are in the Tracy Tools catalogue.
4 September 2011 at 16:20 #74448
Chris Trice
Participant
@christrice43267
SKF/Dormer make some and they also do Morse Taper drill bits (yes, drill bits, not reamers).
4 September 2011 at 16:54 #74454
Dusty
Participant
@dusty
Stirling Single

Before you fix the crosshead to the piston rod make sure that it is in the right position. Turn the motion over by hand and ascertain that you have equal space at either end of the piston stroke. Many a model engineer has found that having made everything as per drawing the piston rod is to long / to short and needs to be remade. The best method is to step drill the hole so that you end up with a hole that has 3/4 steps a few thou appart on dia (depending on size of taper pin) and length of hole. This can now be reamed to size, if you do not clean up all the steps it is not disastrous but the aim is to just take out to the drilled holes. Drilling is a lot easier than reaming.
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