Reverse the three legs so the 'toes' point outwards – but this type of puller is mainly meant for using this way round so this model is unlikely to fit a small bearing – but there are slimmer ones available

Often the way with the outer is to whack the exposed edge with a drift from the other side.

This won't work as an internal pulller unless the race is in a blind hole ot you can bolt a support across the back of it

Exactly, what makes you think it was ever intended for internal bearings?

Remove the centre screw and replace with a slide hammer shaft.

Quite a few different designs of this style of puller. Depending on the details they may or may not be able to work on internal bearings.

As Ian says the key is to reverse the bolt and swing the arms the opposite way so they point away from the bolt head.

If the puller can work in expanding mode curve of the legs where they contact the spider must be such to force the legs further, or rather harder, apart as the bolt is tightened. Sometimes you may have to attach the short flat steel arms to the legs via the second hole. Mine is a 1970's (ish) vintage Sykes Picavant, allegedly the original one, and that essentially won't work in expanding mode to remove a bearing from the inside. Only one hole in the legs and the shape is such that generally there can be no reliable forcing out effect except over a limited. pretty much impractical, range.

You still have to find something for the screw to push against.

I tend to make up internal pullers on an ad hoc basis using an expander in a slotted alloy tube alloy with a small flange to grab the bearing. Or for smaller ones a threaded end expanding concrete fixture (Rawlbolt style) may do the deed. For larger bearings the same sort of expanding fixture may work is padded out with a suitable alloy tube saving significant work in making the device. I've gotten such to behave at tube wall at a thickness approaching 1/4". Hafta say I didn't really expect that one to work but I had appropriate sized parts so it was just a matter of turning a flange and cutting some slots. If it hadn't done the deed I'd have made a proper expander.

Clive

If the bearing is in a blind hole you can just poke the screw through the bearing, otherwise you need to improvise a bridge of some sort.

I've found it easier to improvise a custom puller with a bar with a central threaded hole pulled up towards a bridge piece with a couple of screws heads against the end of the casting.

Neil

For a blind hole you can often use the ‘bread trick’.

You ram in as much doughy bread as you can get in the space behind the bearing. You then hydraulic the bearing out by thumping in a close fitting drift. Works a treat on spigot bearings in engine crankshafts, but a flimsy washing machine tub might not stand it. Other problem might be limited space behind the beating.

Do you have a carbide burr? A last resort, but works. The electric arc welder would be the favourite for me if it is too tight for simple means of extraction.