Fitting Super 7 headstock rear bearings

This topic has 7 replies, 3 voices, and was last updated 7 June 2015 at 11:42 by Ken Weeks.

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1 June 2015 at 11:54 #191969
Ken Weeks
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@kenweeks58536
I have a Mk1 Super 7 headstock that I am getting back into use.

I have had to remove the rear ball bearings, as they were full of dried up grease and the nuts looked to have been adjusted with a hammer and chisel.

Got a couple of replacement nuts coming in the post, but want to make sure I assemble it correctly.

Should the cages marked "thrust" face each other with the spacer washer between with the cut out at the top?

I have the adjustment instructions

Ken
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1 June 2015 at 11:54 #23918
Ken Weeks
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@kenweeks58536
1 June 2015 at 13:38 #191983
Lambton
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@lambton
Ken,

This sound correct. The bearings should be "back to back" The cut out in the spacer is to allow oil to reach the bearings from the nipple. Once in place and correctly adjusted only use then recommended grade 33 oil and never grease. Too much oil will make the bearings noisy until the excess has drained away.
6 June 2015 at 20:28 #192627
Ken Weeks
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@kenweeks58536
Thank you
6 June 2015 at 22:01 #192633
Brian Oldford
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@brianoldford70365
Although I've never had a problem I'm about to check and adjust the spindle bearings on my Mk1 S7. Can someone advise the procedure and confirm whether I need 1 or 2 "C" spanners to make any adjustment that might be necessary?
6 June 2015 at 23:00 #192636
Ken Weeks
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@kenweeks58536
Search for this post to read it all

Myford headstock bearing replacement

But it has this

You should definitely make sure the issue really isn't the rear bearings.

This is the Gospel according to Malcom (The original Myford works proceedure)

1. Power Down

2. Remove all belt tension.

3. Remove Chuck

4. Rotate RH collar one complete turn. (top towards you).

5. Rotate LH collar one complete turn. (top towards you).

Spindle should be completely free of front bush.

6.Loosen allen screw on collar at end of spindle.

7. Using the Allen key tighten collar as tight at it will go by hand.

Inner tapered roller races are now locked together with correct pre-load.

8. Back off LH collar one complete turn + a bit (top away from you)

9. Rocking the spindle by holding the spindle nose tighten the RH collar by hand (top away from you).

10. When you feel resistance to movement stop.

11. Collar should be just tight enough that spindle can just be moved by hand holding the nose.

12. Do up the LH collar by hand (top towards you).

You should still feel resistance when turning the spindle by the nose.

13. With the crescent wrench on the LH collar tap the end smartly with a 12oz hammer.

The spindle should move forwards by a couple of tenths and be completely free running.

14. With the lathe running slowly (lowest direct speed) put the oil gun in the front oil cup and pump until oil issues from the front bearing. (It comes out of the back and is sprayed around by the bull wheel at least it did on mine)

15. All should be sweetness and light with great rejoicing in heaven and on the earth.

You stand a better chance of scraping the front bearing to recondition than you do trying to replace, I believe it is a shrink fit.

regards Martin

Ken
7 June 2015 at 10:35 #192659
Brian Oldford
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@brianoldford70365
Malcolm Martin, Ken?

The reason why I asked one C spanner or two was because I need two (different sizes) for the spindle of my mill.
7 June 2015 at 11:42 #192669
Ken Weeks
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@kenweeks58536
Hi Brian

The nuts are the same size and interchangeable so one size c spanner fits all.

Ken
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