Refitting gib strips.

This topic has 5 replies, 5 voices, and was last updated 26 May 2013 at 12:27 by MICHAEL WILLIAMS.

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22 May 2013 at 16:33 #120446
Alan .204
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@alan-204
Just a quick question about the gib strips I have taken the cross slide apart on the Bantam lathe, its all been cleaned and dried and is now ready to go back together what oil should I be using on the strips and is there a particular way to fit it correctly ? thanks in advance going back in the shop now hope I get it right.

Regards Alan.
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22 May 2013 at 16:33 #22636
Alan .204
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@alan-204
22 May 2013 at 19:41 #120465
Chris Heapy
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@chrisheapy71135
Fit the strips and adjust without the leadscrew fitted so you can move the slide from one extreme to the other by hand. I like to use a high pressure lube – a moly or Teflon based grease for this, not too much as it only attracts (and holds) dirt.

Loosen off all the nuts on the gib adjusting screws and take up the slack only on those where the inner side of the gib is supported by the slide, then move the slide so any remain screws are supported and do the same (Obviously you don't want to be adjusting a gib screw where the gib is overhanging the slide!). Now move the slide by hand over its full travel whilst feeling for resistance, jusdiciously tightening the screws as you go until you can feel all slack has been removed but the slide still moves easily one end to the other. Now nip up the locking screws and check for free movement again (tightening locknuts can affect the tension of the adjusting screws). If everything is still satisfactory then re-assemble the leadscrew and you're good to go.

That's how I do my Myford slides, if your lathe has a different adjustment method then adapt it – the key is to get an even smooth movement over the whole length of travel without any tight spots.
25 May 2013 at 04:11 #120577
oldvelo
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@oldvelo
Hi can I pass on a tip. This a mod I have done on my lathe and milling machine gibs.

Lock the gibs up tight on all adjusting screws.

Remove one screw completely and with a drill to match the tapping size of the screw and tidy up the Indent in the gib strip using an "Egg Beater" or hand drill.

Replace and tighten up repeat until all screws have been treated.

Then dismantle and clean up.

Then remove the screw and form a "cup point" on the end of the screw or fit NEW "Cup Point " screw.

Insert a "bearing ball" the same size as the tapping size for the screw I.E. 5 mm for 6 mm Screw.

Then replace and adjust It to look like =H Excuse the Keyboard CAD drawing.

Not too keen on grease to lubricate "Cast Iron" . Moly or teflon additive to Way Oil is prefered .

Eric

Edited By oldvelo on 25/05/2013 04:13:37
25 May 2013 at 04:27 #120578
_Paul_
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@_paul_
T68 way oil would be my preference.

Regards

Paul
26 May 2013 at 12:27 #120667
MICHAEL WILLIAMS
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@michaelwilliams41215
Before doing any reassembly take time to ensure that the gib strip is flat on the working side . If it isn't the no amount of adjustment will ever get it right .

Ideally needs to be flat to same sort of accuracy as slides themselves . In particular there must be a total asence of twist – twist in gib strips is number one reason why some people have endless difficuly in adjusting . A very slight amount of bending along the length can be tolerated but is best avoided .

One of the reasons why some examples of cheap import machines have reasonably satisfactory slides and others don't is often down to gib strips – they can vary , batch to batch , from nicely ground strips to sheared strips of scrap metal .

MikeW
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