Philip
Agree with David that the leak(s) are almost certainly in the corners. Had same problem with my Smart & Brown 1024 tank and did a cheapskate version of Davids epoxy coating repair using the common glass fibre resin as used, for example, in car body repair kits. Chosen mostly because I had large tin in stock due to over purchase for another project some years previously. Some strategically placed glass fibre tissue placed in the corners helped ensure that there was a seal on the vertical sides without needing an inordinate depth of resin. The 1024 tank slides out which made for an easier job, especially cleaning out, but it has internal sub divisions with thin gaps at the bottom to act as pre filters catching some of the swarf before it gets to the pump pick up screen. Keeping suitable filter gaps after the resin repair was bit tricky.
Did the usual tap all over rust investigation and found a couple of larger holes in the middle which needed welded on patches.
Only going too be temporary job until I got a new tank. Getting on for a decade old now. Now't so permanent as a temporary job. Allegedly the synthetic and semi synthetic coolants are better than old fashioned suds when it comes to tank rusting (and paint stripping).
If you decide to try fitting a new tank inside its worth looking at the deep drawn rectangular stainless steel "pans" from catering supply folks. No seams and price is not completely un-reasonable given that its likely to be much more durable than "found" or "re-purposed" tanks. For example GastroNorm (whatever that means) pans come in a range of sizes with depths up to maybe a foot, Google comes up with some decent size diagrams. Probably £20 to £30 for a suitable one. I've got one about 21" x 13" about the place, obtained for some now forgotten reason.
Clive.
Edited By Clive Foster on 12/11/2017 13:45:51
Edited By Clive Foster on 12/11/2017 13:46:38