Quick question of Parting

Quick question of Parting

Home Forums Beginners questions Quick question of Parting

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  • #9727
    Lainchy
    Participant
      @lainchy
      #415367
      Lainchy
      Participant
        @lainchy

        Very quickly… and an in theory…

        I wanted a part last night that's 6mm thick. So… to set my parting tool, I touched off the face, wound back the cross slide, took off the thickness of my parting tool (1.56mm) with the compound, then wound the compound slide 6mm on the dial.

        Parted off, and I got 6.1mm thickness.

        Treat me gently, I'm very new to this

        Are my thoughts and methods right?

        Ta

        Ian

        #415368
        Hopper
        Participant
          @hopper

          Your methodology was all good. But did you lock the carriage to the bed, and preferably lock the topslide too for best results?

          But parting is not a precision operation. Within 0.1mm is not too bad. Often the parting tool will not go in dead straight if it is not set dead on square to the lathe axis or if the end of the parting tool is not ground dead square.

          Best to part off a bit oversize and then face off the end to final size. You get a better finish that way too.

          #415370
          Lainchy
          Participant
            @lainchy

            Hi Hopper, thanks for the reply

            I did indeed lock the carriage, but currently, in it's un-modded state, I can't lock the topslide. (Chester DB7vs) – it's on my list to do.

            I did also make the mistake before in only eyeballing the parting blade, and that left me with a slight cone on the end of the stock… so, this time, I used a rule to check that it was perpendicular to the bed, and this worked well

            The part itself was the crank web for a small oscillating steam engine – my first project build. I'm guessing the only way I could face this off to exactly 6mm, would be to attach it to the crank axle, and then refit to the lathe.

            #415373
            Hopper
            Participant
              @hopper

              Either that or make up a washer chuck to hold it. A piece of round stock with a recess to fit the thin slice you have, then slit so it can be squeezed down slightly in the three jaw chuck. Easier to mount iton the crank and take a light skim I reckon.

              #415375
              Lainchy
              Participant
                @lainchy

                Brilliant Hopper! Many thanks

                #415453
                Pete Rimmer
                Participant
                  @peterimmer30576
                  Posted by Lainchy on 21/06/2019 09:47:30:

                  Very quickly… and an in theory…

                  I wanted a part last night that's 6mm thick. So… to set my parting tool, I touched off the face, wound back the cross slide, took off the thickness of my parting tool (1.56mm) with the compound, then wound the compound slide 6mm on the dial.

                  Parted off, and I got 6.1mm thickness.

                  Treat me gently, I'm very new to this

                  Are my thoughts and methods right?

                  Ta

                  Ian

                  Next time use a black marker to paint the OD and put a line on it near your desired cut length. I use a cheap digital caliper, set the distance and just use the hardened tip to scribe the line. Now bring your parting blade just left of the line, wind back the compound (set parallel to the bed) a little to make sure there's no backlash and take a shallow parting cut. Measure the piece from the end to the cut with a caliper and then retract the tool and wind back the compound to suit your finished size. Your piece should be very close to length when you part it now.

                  #415473
                  Lainchy
                  Participant
                    @lainchy

                    Cheers Pete. That is useful for sure.

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