Airbrushes is a huge topic and difficult to cover in a single post but, to start with there are one or two useful guidelines.

Many fall into the trap of buying a cheap airbrush, thinking it will do what they want it to do and they don’t want to spend a lot of money.  Almost certainly using a cheap airbrush will lead to disillusionment and frustration.  As a guide, and, as always I’m sure opinions will differ, I reckon a good starting airbrush should be in the region of £100.00 to £150.00.  This should get you a good quality brush that will last for many years and give good enough performance for most tasks.

You really need to do a bit of reading up first to learn about the differences between single action and double action as well as the advantages and disadvantages of cup size and position.  If you are thinking ahead and want to use the airbrush for a traction engine then you are looking at a larger cup and a wider spray pattern rather than a fine detail type with a smaller cup.  Your compressor will be fine as long as it fitted with a pressure reducing valve and a drier, both of which are available from airbrush suppliers.

Start by having a browse around Airbrushes.com and Everythingairbrush.com, both very comprehensive stockists.  You also need to be thinking about location from an aspect of ventilation and safety.  i.e. do you want to set up a spray booth or use natural ventilation.  Masks and goggles are also things to consider.

This is what might be considered a basic set up:

The compressor is a very cheap diaphragm type but the reducing valve and drier is a much better quality:

A really good airbrush for a beginner is the Iwata Revolution TR, which actually combines the dual function into the one trigger and, with the plastic handle, resembles a miniature spray gun rather than an airbrush.  The combined function of the trigger is frequently easier for beginners to operate.  The cup is also a reasonable size for wider areas:

Many might suggest a home made extractor, but there are potentially serious consequences if certain safety features are not considered.  The downside of a purchased extractor hood is that they can be very expensive.

I actually did an article for Model Boats Magazine a few years ago on the subject of airbrushes so I’ve pinched the section on the brushes themselves here:

Probably in itself the single most important piece of equipment is the air brush.  Consequently you need to get it right and for that you really need to get one in your hand.  It must feel comfortable and be easy to use, it must work well, be easy to clean and maintain and last you for many years.  Avoid the very cheap ones, they will not atomise the paint properly so they clog quickly and they are difficult to clean.  They tend to be unreliable as well and you will spend far too much time messing around with it.  I would suggest that you should be looking to spend around £100.00 to £150.00 on the air brush, something along the lines of an Iwata Revolution CR air brush.  I would also go with an established well known proven manufacturer such as Iwata, who will provide spare parts, back up and support as necessary.  You will need to decide on whether you want to go for a single action brush, where you only have a single button to push to operate it, or a double action where you push the button down for the air flow and pull it back for the paint flow.  I personally have never really felt comfortable with the normal push button double action airbrush as my finger just doesn’t seem to have the control necessary in two different planes.  However I did find an Iwata version of the Revolution model that combines the two actions into a trigger operation, called the Iwata Revolution TR-1, and I find that much easier to control.  It is called double action but, in reality it is two steps of the trigger and you basically feel like you are holding a miniature spray gun.  The established and proficient air brush users are not as keen on it but those who struggle with the single finger operation and who find learning a whole new skill a challenge this brush works well.  I also like the big plastic handle as, again, I feel like I have better control over it.  I also use an Iwata Revolution CR and try to get more and more proficient with it but invariably end up going back to the trigger type TR-1.

And finally a word on accessories:

Finally there are one or two accessories that are well worth mentioning as they are so useful you will wonder how you managed without them.

First up is a good quality daylight lamp.  You might want to progress to one either side as I always seem to find myself in my own shadow but one is essential.  Mine is fitted with daylight standard LEDs and gives a superb light.

Next up a cleaning pot.  This initially seems like a gimmick but it is superb.  When you want to blow some thinners through the air brush you put some in the cup and blow it through at full pressure into the pot.  The pot separates the thinners out and leaves you ready to put your next paint in.  When you get into a rhythm of operation with your air brush you will find that cleaning and using it can actually be easier than cleaning a paint brush.  You will need a cleaning pot though.

Daft as it may sound plastic disposable pipettes are also very useful.  I use them for transferring paint and thinners to the paint cup and mix all my proportions in drops.  Using plastic pipettes keeps everything clean and tidy and helps prevent getting paint into places where you don’t want the paint to be.

Apart from that there is kitchen roll, pipe cleaners, paint stirrers, dishes for various thinners, a turntable and all sorts of other bits and bobs that you will decide for yourself what works best and what are just getting in the way.

Another good contact I forgot to mention is Graphicair.com

I used a cheap one that connected to simple air canisters years ago to spray with Humbrol oil paint plastic kits.  It worked well and did a fine job at a time when I could afford little else.  Yes if i wanted to do the job now I would probably spend a lot more on a better setup, but the finish is in the preparation and technique rather than the tool.

I use a similar compressor to Richard, except it has the double head compressor chambers. For things like coloured wood stains I use a cheap air brush. For more elaborate work, I resort to my Harder and steenbeck ultra x.

wooden vase using the cheap one with wood stain

For seemingly well-informed advice on spray guns and compressors, visiting this forum might worthwhile. I find it to be a very helpful, friendly place with sound advice. Like this group, it is not full of people who insist that only the most expensive equipment is worth having. People give due consideration to products in the lower end of the market as well.

https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/forums/paint-metal-coatings-and-media-blasting.41/

James.