Hello Jon,

I made mine [for the ML7] but it it is as you say a measure, build and fit to the lathe job. I think you will find it invaluable at times. I don't though understand how you contemplate attaching it using a bolt hole, mine and all others I know of rely completely on an expanding collet in the mandrel bore to get a grip.

As for the dividing head aspect, that surely is better operating on something solidly attached to the spindle such as the bull wheel, or the small gear on the end of the spindle driving the change wheels down to the leadscrew. You do have an awkward tooth number bull wheel at 65 but bearing that in mind you could make up a working tool.

Regards Brian

I made one for my mini-lathe and milled a hex nut on the driving end. Then I used a ratchet driver and socket to turn the lathe spindle rather than a hand crank. Not sure where I got the idea from, I didn't invent it! The main advantage is not having to make a handle, but the ratchet feature was helpful as I was short of space. I only used mine for threading: by the time I finished it I had a mill and a rotary table.

Although I intend making another for my WM280 it's slipped down my to do list. The WM280 can do 30rpm under power which is slow enough especially after Jason taught me his 'cut threads in reverse' trick. Since adopting Jason's threading method I've stopped powering the cross-slide into the headstock!

Dave

Yes, that's a big advantage too. I forgot to mention it. It's very easy to detach a ratchet handle.

What happens when a lathe is powered up with a spindle handle still plugged in is best left to the imagination!

Dave

Me too, things can get very lively, although if you have been following another post on the forum regarding startup procedure, then this lap in concentration is less pants filling. There have been times I have been grateful for a not too powerful lathe, but it can still hurt (lots!)