Total Beginner

[Ian Thompson 5Participant @ianthompson5]

Hi all. This is my first post having now decided to purchase a lathe to assist with vintage motorbike restoration.

Untill now, I have paid a 'professional' to make studs etc, which are mainly in stainless steel. Having now retired, I now have the time, if not the experience to do work myself !!

Simple question, should I look for an old as used by many, or should I consider a new machine, similar to those sold by Machine Mart, which I understand are made in China ?

Looking forward to some guidance.

[Ian Thompson 5Participant @ianthompson5]

[Harry WilkesParticipant @harrywilkes58467]

Ian

Can't advise as to what you should purchase and don't know where you live but the Midland Model Exb will be on us in a couple of weeks and is worth a look.

H

[David George 1Participant @davidgeorge1]

Hi Ian welcome to the forum. Where are you based as it helps people to suggest local supliers etc. There are many bikers on the forum and they may be able to help with projects. The size of lathe depends on what parts you want to turn ie if you want to turn a fork leg would need a larger lathe with s spindle that would pass the diamiter down the centre. There are many supliers so have a good look around and always have a look at second hand as well.

David

[MadMikeParticipant @madmike]

Welcome Ian. Before you pick a lathe, I suggest that you really think about what you want to make, and more importantly, with old motorbikes, what you might need to make. Wheel spindles? You will need to be able to work over a 12 to 16 inch length of component. Skim a brake drum? perhaps a 10 inch diameter will be a necessity. the list goes on and on. If making studs and other fasteners then for originality you will need to be able to cut Cycle threads (26 and 20 TPI thread pitch). For old British bikes you can buy hexagon bar in stainless to allow the use of BSW spanners. So I would suggest you look for an Imperial machine rather than a metric one. Many of the cheaper Chinese lathes are possibly only available as Metric machines. I am in Leicestershire, and if you want to come over and discuss what you need etc just let me know.

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember19781]

[This posting has been removed]

[jann westParticipant @jannwest71382]

When you ask a question like this it is only polite to offer to buy popcorn !

[Neil WyattModerator @neilwyatt]

Welcome to the forum Ian, it is good advice to think about the jobs you might want to do yourself.

If it is things like studs, then it's likely a mini lathe will be a good choice.

Neil

[Ian Thompson 5Participant @ianthompson5]

Hi guys, thank you all very much for your warm welcome, together with all your useful comments.

You have certainly made me think, it appears I will be on a steep learning curve !!

The lathe will initially be used on my 1939 BSA, so it will be primarily for wheel spindles, front suspension spindles, as it's a girder fork design, together with general genals bits and bobs. MadMikes comment regarding going for an older imperial model seams to make sense.

Harry Wilkes mentioned the Midland Model Expo. I'm based in Telford, do you have any idea when and where it is ?

In responded to Jan Wests comments, popcorn could be on offer if I get to the show!!

[Former MemberParticipant @formermember19781]

[This posting has been removed]

[not done it yetParticipant @notdoneityet]

Just enter the description in your search engine and all will be revealed.

17-20th at the Warwickshire Events Centre, Warwick

[Ian Thompson 5Participant @ianthompson5]

Thank you both for your comments, I'll follow them up.

[Howard LewisParticipant @howardlewis46836]

Welcome, Ian.

DO join your local M E club. Before ordering your lathe, as already said, think about bthe largest work that you will want to turn, in terms of both and diameter and length.

Then buy one a little bit larger! There is no perfect lathe, just ones that suit most of your purposess

The modern lathes are likely to be geared head, rather than belt driven. Gears can be a bit noisier, and don't slip if you have a pile up. A lathe such as a Chester Craftsman will be a belt driven (Warco don't sell their equivalent, the BH600, any more) Mine is another clone, no longer available, an Engineers ToolRoom BL12 -24, Metric, but with dual dials..

Speeds are changed on belt driven lathes by moving the belts over the pulleys. More modern machines vary speed electronically.

A Nnorton gearbox makes setting up feeds or thread pitches much easier than selecting the best set of changewheels. Such a machine may well have Power cross Feed built in. This can be a useful feature.

You might be able to find secondhand BH600 in good condition – they came in Imperial or Metric vesrions. The Craftsman is only Metric, but the current ones have DRO, so can read in either Metric or Imperial.

Upto 1/2" you should be able to make most threads using Taps and Dies..

Unless you are cutting hardened steel, High Speed Steel should suffice for most work, in my opinion.

My favourite is a tangential turning tool. The commercial version is the Diamond Turning Tool, sold by Eccentric Engineering.

Hope that all this a little help. You will gets lots of help on here, so keep in contact.

Howard

[Chris Evans 6Participant @chrisevans6]

Welcome along Ian from another old bike restorer. Your 1939 BSA is a bit modern for me I have a 1929 BSA Sloper and a 1932 Sloper as a project. I find my Taiwanese 14" x 40" lathe does all I require for the bikes and also parts for other people as well. I know Mad Mike and his offer of calling for a chat is worthwhile so that you buy the correct machine for your needs. Work out your space and budget and buy the biggest lathe you can after chatting with other users. Chris.

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