Brass Hornblocks

Brass Hornblocks

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  • #117705
    nigel jones 5
    Participant
      @nigeljones5

      I need to make hornblocks for my 71/4 Invicta project but dont want to buy castings, axleboxes are cast, it isnt likely to see much use so do you think brass would do?

      #6676
      nigel jones 5
      Participant
        @nigeljones5
        #117713
        MICHAEL WILLIAMS
        Participant
          @michaelwilliams41215

          Hi Fizzy ,

          Brass would probably survive for a couple of seasons running but my choice would be just to use steel or cast iron boxes . The sliding surfaces would last forever and if you put thin wall bushes in for the axles then these can be renewed as nescessary – probably very infrequently .

          There is merit in making axleboxes split so that you can drop them off the axles for repairs without having to press the wheels off .

          Life of axlebxes depends a lot on lubrication and protection from grit . Well arranged oilpipes and passageways for the lubrication and tinplate shields for any boxes in vicinity of ashpan .

          Regards ,

          Michael Williams .

          #117748
          roy entwistle
          Participant
            @royentwistle24699

            Michael The quiery was for horn blocks not axleboxes Not being an engine builder I can't help

            but I would have thought brass would do

            Roy

            #117752
            Dusty
            Participant
              @dusty

              I think some of the problem is that Fizzy is talking about hornblocks and axleboxes in the same sentence, it is not clear what he means. I know that some people refer to axleboxes as hornblocks and call the horns exactly that. If it is the horns themselves I would go for a mild steel fabrication. But as Michael said Brass is really a no no.

              #117768
              MICHAEL WILLIAMS
              Participant
                @michaelwilliams41215

                Hello all ,

                If its the axlebox guideways as fixed permanently to frames that are of interest then definately not brass . Mild steel will do all that is required . Can either be plain bar/angle or a brazed/welded assembly arranged to look something like full size .

                Agreed there is a bit of a descriptive problem !

                LBSC just used ' Hornblocks ' and ' Axleboxes ' in the conventional way and this is probably easiest .

                MikeW

                #117802
                nigel jones 5
                Participant
                  @nigeljones5

                  hi

                  axle boxes are cast iron as stated, steel frames, brass for horn-blocks?

                  #117803
                  nigel jones 5
                  Participant
                    @nigeljones5

                    bit more info…the axle boxes sit in the frame, with the horn block rivited to the inside of the frame, so half of the contact surface between axlebox and the slot it moves up and down in is already steel. The hornblock will make up the rest of the required thickness of the axlebox.

                    #117804
                    Sub Mandrel
                    Participant
                      @submandrel

                      Use mild steel. I should have done that for my shunter, although the 'Tich' gunmetal hornblocks weren't very expensive (about £10?)

                      Neil

                      #117805
                      nigel jones 5
                      Participant
                        @nigeljones5

                        ahhh…not what i wanted to hear as i have no ms that thick…picture if it helps:

                        drawing2.jpg

                        #117807
                        MICHAEL WILLIAMS
                        Participant
                          @michaelwilliams41215

                          Hi Fizzy ,

                          Yu are using what is effectively a doubler plate on back of frames . Doesn't have to be in one piece though – I've used separate bits of plain bar in the past – one on each side of opening and rivetted in place .

                          Could also use separate pieces of angle or bend up a piece of channel from relatively thin steel and weld to an also thin flat plate to give a riveting flange – remember to cut the middle out though !.

                          MikeW

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