The ones I have are case hardened and when I bought some extra for my lathe they were slightly diferent and I found that I could mill them with a solid 10mm carbide end mill. If you go straight in under the hard skin it milled ok.

David

Edited By David George 1 on 14/07/2020 19:35:09

Thomas

The bottom of the holder is "in the wind" anyway and does nothing so exact size and shape matters little so long as you have clearance and the bottom lip not unduly weakened.

If the material is machine unfriendly, or needs a heftier machine than what is available, I'd have no compunction about hitting it with a flap disk in a hand held angle grinder to rush the bulk of the material off then finishing up in the linisher so the final surface looks true. My linisher is a Morrisflex vertical type so setting some stops on the table and clamping a bar in the tool post would let me get very close to true and parallel.

If you do go the flap disk in an angle grinder way blueing up the four edges and scribing a line will give you a good guide for getting it close with the angle grinder.

One other issue to be aware of when mixing'n matching Dickson type toolholders is the thickness of the bottom collar on the height adjusting device. There is some variation, much more so with hobby market suppliers than professional. If they are too thick they won't fit properly in the snail shaped slot in the locking device and the holder will be canted over rather than properly locked vertically to the post. Which is very unsatisfactory. Frequently you see bent height setting studs on holders abused in this manner. Well worth checking if you haven't already done so.

Clive